Guide
to the Loire regions
Val du
Loir
Producer
profiles - Jasnières and Coteaux du
Loir
Christine
de Mianville (2005)
Prior
to our meeting, I had been informed that Christine de Mianville’s
vineyards were more like ‘a large garden’. This might be a little
unkind, but in essence she is a small vigneronne,
in more ways than one. Christine was born in
Quebec
and comes to the Loir
via the Languedoc-Roussillon where her husband worked as a viticultural
consultant. They moved to Varrains, a commune in Saumur-Champigny, and she
took a position teaching in the Lycée
Viticole in nearby Montreuil-Bellay. She wanted to make wine and
Chenin specifically, but loved the day job too, and managed to negotiate
an agreement with herself that would satisfy both passions. It might have
been easier to stay local, but instead she has been renting half a hectare
of twenty year old Chenin in Jasnières from Michel Boulay since 2005.
Wine
Overview:
The half
hectare is divided into two parcels, almost at the two extremes of the
appellation. Chant de Vigne is
just 30 ares and is situated at the western edge where the soil is made up
of more Sénonian silex and clay, whilst the 20 ares of les Côtières, which is within Sous-le-Bois
to the east, has more red-ocre sandy clay and less stones. Both sites
share the tufa subsoil. The cellar is situated in Salvert, a hamlet of
Lhomme and at the foot of the slopes. Everything is harvested by hand
(obvious, I guess, given the vineyard area), when the berries are golden;
Christine is not looking to make sweeter styles, as she believes in her
own mind that Jasnières is an appellation for dry wines. After pressing,
the juice goes directly to barrel where it remains for between 12 and 18
months.
The Wines:
The obvious
observation about the wines is that they show a good expression of vintage
character. They conform to what the wines should taste like - based on my
own impression of the year. Given that the 2007 tasted here was only her
third harvest, the ability to express the character of the vintage at this
stage of her winemaking career is probably as much as one can ask. These
are good wines, and worth seeking out. Small volumes means the prices are
quite high, but this has to be seen in context of an appellation where
value is still relative.
2006
Jasnières ‘Chant de Vigne’
Polished.
Quite deep orange/gold appearance. Distinctly oxidative nose, but clean,
complex and attractive. Rich with aromas and flavours of honey, quince and
toffee. Rich but dry on entry. Well textured. Mineral with chalky
undertones. Very good structure and length. Approachable now, although has
the potential to go the distance. Lovely. (12/08)
2007 Jasnières ‘Chant de Vigne’
Light
appearance. Green hints. Dry and more classic and mineral nose. Racy and
pure on entry. Apples and pear skin. Bone dry on entry with lovely
texture. Flavours of hazelnuts. Autolytic. Very pure, although quite high
toned. Chalky texture and a dry finish. Drinkable on release, but will
age. Classic. (12/08)
2006 Jasnières ‘Le Côtières’
Rich. Deep
appearance. Riper and distinctly oxidative hints on the nose. Evidence of
the riper year. Nutty and spicy, with aromas of honey and quince. Rich on
entry. Dry. Builds well with very good structure, concentration and
weight. More evidence of leesy, nutty, autolytic flavours on the palate.
Quite high toned and in a distinct oxidative style. Drinking well now, but
will age. Good. (12/08)
2005 Jasnières ‘Le Côtières’
Polished.
Deep, straw/gold. Very pure and attractive, but slightly more old
fashioned Chenin nose. Distinctive. Green apples and toffee apple,
hazelnuts and quince like flavours. Very delicate and complex and more
like a classic Vouvray. Filigree
texture. Very good. (12/08)
Christine de Mianville
Chemin de la Sarpette
Lhomme
T: + 33 2 41 52 91 62 (domicile)
demainville@voila.fr
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