Guide
to the Loire regions
Val du
Loir
Producer
Profiles – Coteaux du Vendômois
Domaine
Jean Martellière (1975)

Jasmine
and Joël Martellière
The
Marellières are the sole producer to exploit all three appellations of
the Loir
valley. The family itself has been in the region for centuries; five
generations at least have inhabited the various houses they own in the
hamlet of Fosse, situated just to the west of Montoire-sur-le-Loir. It
was, however Jean Martellière, father of Joë, who bought
vines from his brother in the Coteaux du Vendômois in 1975 to complete
the domaine. For years, Jean senior’s wife ran the café ‘Le Paix’
on the main square in Montoire, and it was here that Joël was to
meet his future wife. Françoise has been running the bar herself now for
nearly thirty years (see dining section) and this modest restaurant has
become the main shop window for the wines of the domaine. Joël and Françoise
have two children; Jean-Vivien, who works with his father at the cellar in
Fosse, and a daughter, Jasmine who has recently worked a stage
at Mount Langhi Ghiran in Victoria.
Wine
Overview :
Today, their
total vineyard holding extends to eleven hectares, plus one further
hectare that is rented. The main production is centred in the Coteaux du
Vendomôis with ten hectares of vines based on two main parcels situated
on the slopes between Montoire and les Roches-L’Eveque, although they do
have some access to other parcels on the south side of the river. Two
thirds of the Vendômois grapes go for Vin de Pays production and as base
wine for their growing market for sparkling gris,
made solely with Pineau d’Aunis. The family bought a 1.5 hectare parcel
in Sous-le-Bois in Jasnières in 1986 and proceeded to replant it with
massale selected Chenin. They also have one third of a hectare of Pineau
d’Aunis for the production of Coteaux du Loir rouge in the commune of
Ruillé-sur-Loir, planted at the foot of the Sous-le-Bois
vineyard.
The average age of the vines is now 30 years, although the oldest come
from an eighty year old parcel of Pineau d’Aunis, planted above Montoire.
Most of the harvest is conducted by machine, although their Vin de Pays
Gamay is hand harvested to allow for carbonic maceration fermentation.
Also, all the Pineau d’Aunis for the Coteaux du Loir is hand harvested
as this too is whole bunch fermented. Occasionally, conditions exist for
the production of sweeter style of Jasnières, which is then selected by
triage.
In the cellar, chestnut was abandoned in the early 1980s and the wines are
either fermented in small 50 hectolitre tanks, or where possible, in
second hand barrels made of Jupille oak, sourced from producers of dry
white
Bordeaux
. Only indigenous yeasts are used for fermentation.
The Wines :
These should
be considered some of the best of the appellation, although the real
quality lies more in their Jasnières and Coteaux du Loir wines (see
separate entry under those appellations).
2007
Coteaux du Vendômois Gris
Polished. More onion skin appearance than pink. Light and clean nose.
Bone dry. Quite high toned, but with good minerality and acidity. Spicy to
finish. Good (12/08)
2006 Coteaux du Vendômois Rouge ‘Réserve Jean-Vivien’
A blend of
55% Pineau d’Aunis with 40% Cabernet Franc and the balance from Pinot
Noir. Raised in oak. Mid-pale showing some evolution to the appearance.
Good graduation to rim. Slightly stalky one the nose and the wood shows a
little. Fresh and juicy on the palate with ripe tannins and good length.
Just a little too dry on the finish. (12/08)
2005 Coteaux du Vendômois Rouge ‘Réserve Jean-Vivien’
Mid depth
ruby appearance with good graduation. This shows some herbal characters on
the nose and is more Cabernet Franc like than Pineau d’Aunis. Light,
clean and fresh on the palate, but still a little too green, especially
for a 2005 vintage. Short on the finish. (12/08)
2005
Coteaux du Vendômois Rouge ‘Cuvée de la Possonnière’
Polished.
Youthful red. Pink to the rim. Mid depth. Denser with some ‘organic’
whiffs. Peppery nose, but some evidence of brettanomyces to the palate
along with some volatility. Grippy and quite bitter on the finish. (01/09)
2003 Coteaux du Vendômois Rouge ‘Réserve Tradition’
Raised in
oak. Dull, ruby appearance. Youthful to rim. No real sign of evolution as
yet. Clean but quite closed on the nose. Well structured palate and shows
greater ripeness. Less stalky and true to the vintage, but neither is it confit.
Tannins are still quite grippy, but with good weight. The wood is well
integrated. Still a bit tough and tannic and could do with a little more
time. (12/08)
1989 Coteaux du Vendômois Rouge
There is
Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, along with Pineau d’Aunis and a little
Pinot Noir. Bright. Mid full with some garnet hints. Very good mature
graduation to the rim. This still shows some good fruit to the nose.
Broad, and slightly smoky and savoury. Distinctly ‘organic’ nose, and
the profile is more like a Cahors or other south west red. The palate is
still dense and square and lacks real structure. There is still fruit on
the palate, but the tannins are dry and noticeable. This might come good,
but the tannins might outlive the fruit. Juicy acidity. (12/08)
1985 Coteaux du Vendômois Rouge
Bright. Ruby
centre with very good graduation. Mature nose; not unlike an old Bourgueil.
A bit sawdust like on the nose (although that is a positive note). Still
retains some black fruit, but the tertiary characters are starting to
appear. Gentle and delicate on the palate. Elegant and refined. It still
has a firm structure and is relatively tight. Mature, but no rush to drink.
(12/08)
Domaine Jean Martellière
46 Rue de la Fosse
Fosse
Montoire-sur-Loir
T: + 33 2 54 85 16 91
P: + 33 6 08 99
94 15
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