to the Loire regions
Profiles – Coteaux du Vendômois
Jumert is a pretty typical example of what to expect of a vigneron in the Coteaux du Vendômois. He comes from long line of
farmers, in his case seven generations and as well as tending 13 hectares
of vines (half of which he rents from a retired grower), he also farms
wheat and lucerne along with other cereals.
parcels here are on the right bank of the Loir, sited in the villages of Azé (0.80 ha) and Mazangé (1.70 ha) as well
as Villiers-sur-Loir (10.50 ha) which is where his rock-hewn cellar is
also situated. Of his own 6.5 hectares, the oldest vines were planted in
1900. Invariably these are Pineau d’Aunis and, even though established
after phylloxera, they were planted ungrafted. For Jumert this is the most
important variety he has planted and accounts for a total of six hectares.
He insists that massale selected material is the only option when
replanting Pineau d’Aunis, so he chooses his own stock and does the
grafting (with riperia gloire)
himself. As with most growers in the region, he does not produce AC wines
exclusively; in fact only 30% of his production is sold as Coteaux du
The wines are raised in his caves in the tufa in epoxy lined concrete
tanks, although some of the reds are to be found in barrique - where they
end up tasting like a poor man’s Rioja. Bottling for the gris
and the white wines is generally carried out in the spring following the
harvest, with the reds later in the season. All the reds are blended and
he has never seen the benefit of producing a pure Pineau d’Aunis.
simple but competent wines, although a little rustic and ‘paysan’.
There are more exciting things happening in the appellation than can be
The Wines :
Coteaux du Vendômois Blanc
Pale appearance. Distinctive nose. Clean, candy floss and freshly baked
croissants. Quite an old fashioned style. Very dry, taut and mineral.
Austere with even a touch of tannic grip, but shows its potential.
Unforgiving malic acidity with flavours of calvados. Unapproachable now as
very closed and unknit, but should come right. (12/08)
appearance. The palate is more evolved with some ‘maritime’ Chenin
characters with aromas of apples and pears behind. Very mineral style.
Bone dry and austere and has the same maritime/oyster shell flavours on
the palate. Some phenolic grip. A bit rustic. Would best be kept and no
rush to drink. Shows good varietal character but remains undistinguished.
1996 Coteaux du Vendômois Blanc
appearance. Polished. Spicy, with hints of brioche and yeast. Dry, mineral
entry. Tight and austere. Very good weight and focus with very a fine
thread of acidity. Good. Drinking now, but would age further. (12/08)
2007 Coteaux du Vendômois Gris
A blend of
45% Pineau d’Aunis, 35% Cabernet Franc and a token amount of Gamay.
Tight and mineral, lean and austere. There is good freshness here, but it
lacks fruit and generosity. It’s still youthful, but also a bit too
herbal and green with a stalky finish. (12/08)
2005 Coteaux du Vendômois Rouge
for the reds changes from year to year – as does the label. A bit hot
and baked on the nose and palate. Tight and falls short. Quite simple and
2007 Coteaux du Vendômois Rouge
youthful red. Much better on the nose that the 2007. It shows ripeness but
is not hot. The palate is meaty, spicy and a touch ‘organic’. Good
grip and is still quite firm, but should evolve. There is good fruit here
and on the whole it is balanced and concentrated. Good. (12/08)
2006 Coteaux du Vendômois Rouge
This is a
curiosity; made from an obscure and ancient variety once grown in the
region called Meslier Saint-François. Its characteristics are very
similar to those of Chenin. Jumert took cuttings in 1990 from an old vigneron who was grubbing up what was believed to be the last parcel
in the region. The vineyard was in the path of the new TGV line and had to
go. He did the grafting himself and he believes he is the only grower in
the region still to have the variety. This 2003 was naively labelled under
the appellation and he applied for a derogation on this vintage only. The
wine, when made, has since been bottled as a Vin de Table. Lovely honeyed
nose of apricot confit. Tight and mineral on the palate with a phenolic
grip and high natural acidity to balance out the (60g/l) residual sugar.
This is still quite unknit, but should come together. (12/08)
2003 Coteaux du Vendômois Blanc ‘Le Doucer de Meslier Saint-François’
Cave de la
Rue de la Berthelotière
T: + 33 2 54 72 94 09
P: + 33 6 07 77 71 80
F: + 33 2 54 72 94 09