to the Loire regions
profiles - Jasnières and Coteaux du
de Cézin (1925)
father and son
Fresneau’s are the fourth generation of vignerons
to have worked at the domaine since it was established in 1925. Gently
spoken and ever modest François is in his late 50s and is the former
president of the growers syndicate. His 25 year old son, Xavier, has now
joined him and works in the vines.
important producers in the appellation of Coteaux du Loir where they work
13.5 hectares. Half of the vines are within the ownership of the family,
but they also rent the same amount from half a dozen retired growers
around the region, including Flée, Lhomme and six plots in Marçon. They
have four hectares of Pineau d’Aunis and seven of Chenin. In addition,
they also make a little wine in Jasnières from a combined 1.5 hectares
they rent in Le Clos des Jasnières, Le Clos des Fleuries, Les Molières and Clos
de la Gidonnières. In 2007, Xavier made own wine from rented vines in
Chahaignes. Most of the grapes are harvested by machine, although they
will pick Chenin by hand if a triage is required before harvest.
In the time of André Fresneau, all the wines were aged in chestnut, but
François made the change to stainless steel and fibre glass when his
father retired. They do, however, make a little wine in old barriques
bought from Château Rieussec which have been used to ferment and age
their dry white
. They make two different reds each year; one from a blend of four
different varieties which includes Gamay, Cabernet Franc and Côt along
with between 60 and 65% Pineau d’Aunis; the other is an Aunis
pur which has a passage in
like François and Xavier, these wines are quiet and reserved, but with an
aire of confidence and self assurance. The reds are particularly pure and
make for a very good introduction to Pineau d’Aunis, both within a blend
and as a mono-cépage. They
should be viewed as one of the most consistent producers within the
d’Aunis. Half is maceration, the rest is direct pressure. Attractive,
very pale appearance. Very clean and primary on the nose. The flavours are
still quite neutral at present. Appears dry and mineral. Light, with some
pepper on the finish. Good. (12/08)
2008 Coteaux du Loir Rosé
green appearance. Clean, although marked by some sulphur. Restrained nose
with a touch of green apple. Tight and austere, but very good structure.
Good grip and concentration and mineral to finish. Persistent, but the
flavours still need to evolve and allow the residual sulphur dioxide to
abate. Appears dry, although it carries 6g/l residual sugar. Promising.
2007 Coteaux du Loir Blanc ‘François Fresneau’
green. Primary nose. Needs time to express itself. The palate is more
expressive due to the residual sugar (10g/l), but the flavours remain
primary on the palate. Good potential. Green apple flavours and acidity.
This really needs a year or two. (12/08)
2007 Coteaux du Loir Blanc ‘Xavier Fresneau’
Coteaux du Loir Blanc ‘Delicatesse’
This is from
40 year old Chenin vines grown on clay and silex soils above the cellar.
The Fresneau conduct a severe green harvest to reduce the crop to 30hl/ha.
The wine is fermented in second hand
barrels and batonnaged whilst
still on its fine less. Polished. Pale green. Attractive appearance.
Richer and more open. The wood shows on both nose and palate, but is well
textured although a little unknit at present with the oak and the acidity
standing apart. Good structure and length. It just needs some time. It is
currently dominated by its primary Chenin aromas and flavours. (12/08)
Pale green. Attractive appearance. Clean and primary Chenin, showing
quality even if not yet evolved. Mid weight on entry. Nicely rounded with
good richness and concentration. Builds well with a firm, mineral acidity.
It’s still tight on the palate, but shows its potential. Both the
acidity and sulphur dioxide need to settle. True and authentic. (12/08)
and aged in oak. Polished. Pale green. Closed, but has a lovely clean and
ripe nose with some flattering oak. Very good Chenin definition, although
still very primary. Rich and sweet on entry (40g/l) but well focused with
good structure and length. There is an edge of volatility here. Good
acidity to the finish with green apple flavours. The wood is unknit, but
this is a good example of a modern style. Shows promise but needs time.
2007 Jasnières ‘Clos des Fleuries’
A blend of
65% Pineau d’Aunis with Gamay, Cabernet Franc and Côt. Polished. Very
light appearance. Youthful pink to the rim. Attractive, spicy nose. The
Pineau d’Aunis character shows through very clearly. Very pure on both
nose and palate. Good grip with fresh acidity and supple tannins. Very
light and delicate but with excellent balance and flavour profile. Lovely
now, but should age over a number of years. (12/08)
2007 Coteaux du Loir Rouge ‘Janus’
Coteaux du Loir Rouge ‘Aunis’
100% Pineau d’Aunis aged in concrete. Polished.
Pale red/pink. Very good and pure varietal character to the nose. Aromas
of pepper and spice and black, bitter cherries. Gentle on entry with good
red fruit expression and more cherry flavours. Light, but with generous
flesh. Supple tannins with lifted, fresh acidity. Lovely now, but could
age further. (12/08)
Domaine de Cézin
Xavier & Francois Fresneau
T: + 33 2 43 44 13 70
F: + 33 2 43 79 91 49