to the Loire regions
profiles - Jasnières and Coteaux du
de la Radière
use of the cellar name rather hides the fact that the wines produced by
this father and son team are actually commercialised under their own
names; Bernard and Christophe Croisard. Bernard joined his father in 1970, and
fourth generation Christophe arrived here in 1996 and has been, for the
past two years, the president of the local growers’ syndicate. The wines
are made in the same cellar, a purpose built facility in front of the old
tufa caves. They divide the parcels equally between themselves but there
are no duplications with the names of the cuvées. This is not simply a
case of the same wine being bottled and sold with two different labels.
This, in the
context of the region, is a large domaine, and they have no agricultural
interests other than the production of wine. There are a total of twenty
hectares, although seven are rented from old, retired vignerons or their heirs who want the emotional tie of owning a
vineyard but without the commitment. The rented parcels are all in the
Coteaux du Loir appellation, which is where most of their production lies.
Here they have significant holdings of Chenin (9ha), including parcels in
two of the finest sites for the Coteaux du Loir: Rasné
and the neighbouring Le Présidal.
They also own two hectares in Le
Clos des Molières in Jasnières. In addition to seven hectares of
Pineau d’Aunis there is also a hectare each of Gamay and Côt which go
to make Vin de Pays. Three quarters of the vines are harvested by machine,
but where the slopes are too steep for Chenin they harvest by hand. They
also have one parcel of 100 year old Pineau d’Aunis which is still
trained to gobelet and has to be picked by hand. They don’t set out to
make sweeter style wines, but the function of more recent harvests has
forced this decision upon them.
Wine Overview :
In the cellar, they use fibre glass extensively, but not in isolation, and
they remain one of the traditional growers still to raise some wine in
chestnut. The barrels are very old, some being used by three consecutive
generations of Croisard’s.
As one would
expect from a traditional producer such as this, the wines are a little
old fashioned and are also not very flattering in their youth. They tend
to close up quickly and hide their possible charms. They are competent
rather than great, but are honest and true to their origins.
The Wines :
Jasnières ‘Clos des Molières’
fibre glass. Polished. Pale with distinct green hints. Clean and
traditional Chenin nose. Restrained green apple. A little bit grubby and
old fashioned. Well balanced with good acidity and more flavours of green
apple. Tight at present and not very expressive. Needs time. Decent.
fibre glass. Polished. Pale green. Richer and riper on the nose with more
evolution, although still restrained. Clean on the palate with good
structure and length. Delicate style. Good length with some apple flavours
and a light finish. Approachable now, but will keep a few years. (12/08)
Mid depth yellow. Broader nose and shows ripeness. Open and delicate with
baked apple and quince aromas. Ripe on entry with very good structure.
Broad flavours of apples and pears. Typical high malic acidity to the
finish. Juicy and persistent. Approachable, but will age further. (12/08)
Coteaux du Loir Blanc ‘Rasné
Pale straw. Clean but neutral nose. Broad on entry, but also closed at
present. There is an apple skin flavour and texture and very good
structure but giving nothing away at this stage. Distinctive, with a fine
thread of acidity on the finish. A hint of residual sugar on the finish.
Needs time. (12/08)
Coteaux du Loir Blanc ‘Rasné
appearance. Slightly deeper yellow/straw. Closed on the nose, but shows
some richness. The palate is more expressive and is drier than the 2007.
Green apple flavours and more tannic and chalky with grip. Well
structured. Mid length. Approachable now, but will age. (12/08)
Pale straw/green. Still quite closed on the nose. Some apples and quince
and maybe a little smoky. Ripe on entry, but still backward. There is
distinct residual sugar here (30g/l). Delicate and very good balance with
flavours of baked apples. The (14%) alcohol shows a little on the finish.
Very good potential, but needs time to evolve and the alcohol to
2005 Coteaux du Loir Blanc ‘Rasné
Coteaux du Loir Blanc ‘Rasné
Deep appearance with yellow/gold hints. Broad and a traditional Chenin
nose. A touch rustic and grubby. Less pure. There is some evolution of
secondary flavours here. Rich on entry and quite broad. The acidity is
noticeably lower. Very rich and concentrated although lacks freshness.
Spiced apple flavours to finish. Falls a bit short due to the lack of
acidity. I question whether it can age. Drinking now. (12/08)
Coteaux du Loir Blanc ‘Présidal’
Mid depth yellow/straw. Closed nose. Typical backward Chenin. Delicate on
the palate, but a bit rustic and earthy. Broad and ripe and the palate is
more open than the nose suggests. The palate is a touch dry (this was aged
in chestnut) and the residual sugar shows a little. Decent balance. Mid
length. Rich, but falls a little short. (12/08)
Coteaux du Loir Rosé
Pineau d’Aunis. Polished, deep salmon pink. Good minerality to the nose,
with ripe and spicy pepper aromas. Rich on entry. Carries around 8g/l
residual sugar which helps to flatter and balance it out. Very good.
Drinking now. (12/08)
and raised in chestnut for 12 months. Polished. Deep appearance. Yellow.
Broad nose of baked apple and pears. Distinctive and attractive. Delicate
and complex on the palate with very good structure on entry. Broad, with
good concentration and nicely textured. Flavours of apples and pears.
Juicy and spicy. It does show a dryness on the finish with some phenolics.
Chalky texture. Approachable now. Traditional style but will evolve well. (12/08)
Polished. Mid-pale. Green hints. Closed nose. Clean but showing very little.
There is a hint of wood here. Broad and more expressive on the palate and
the ripeness shows. Baked apples. Well textured. Open now. Good balance,
but just lacks a little freshness in the acidity. Very good Chenin
character with obvious residual sugar. The alcohol shows a little on the
finish and is a touch phenolic. Good length. It should age further.
2003 Coteaux du Loir Blanc ‘Vigne du Pressoir’
d’Aunis. Mid depth. Ruby red. Youthful to rim. The wood shows on the
nose giving it a savoury edge. Ripe, but not confit. Some spice, but
beyond pepper on the nose. Tight on the palate and quite tannic. Needs
time to settle. Very good balance and structure. Still a little young.
Good potential. (12/08)
2005 Coteaux du Loir Rouge
Coteaux du Loir Rouge ‘Vieilles Vignes’
Bright. Pale, youthful ruby. Broad
and ripe on the nose. A bit hot. Mid weight palate. It tastes a little
volatile and lacks structure and definition in its varietal character.
Tight and tannic on the palate. A bit over extracted. Unlikely to soften.
Bernard Croisard & Christophe Croisard
Cave de la Radière
T: + 33 2 43 44 47 12
F: + 33 2 43 79 14 90