Val du Loir
Producer
Profiles – Coteaux du Vendômois
Jean & Benoît Brazilier
Jean
Brazilier
Jovial
Jean Braziler has a tyrefitter’s grip of a handshake. Benoît, his rugby
playing son, represents the seventh generation of Braziliers to have
worked vineyards in Thoré-la-Rochette. He joined his father in 1997 and
although only in his mid-thirties is the current head of the wine growers
syndicate. Together, they farm 25 hectares of vines, a significant holding
in these parts. Ten of these are family owned and mostly replanted by Jean
himself over the past 25 years. In addition to the domaine vineyards, they
also rent a further ten hectares from a retired vigneron.
In total, fifteen hectares are under the appellation Coteaux du Vendômois,
but they also produce Vin de Pays using Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot
Blanc and some Gamay. For the appellation wines, they tend four hectares
of Chenin Blanc, five of Pineau d’Aunis and seven of Cabernet Franc.
There are also a couple of hectares of Pinot Noir planted too.
There is no doubt that the Braziliers are both an important and
serious producer within the appellation. The quality of the wines is good
and they are both honest and authentic. On the basis of the tasting below,
they are a reliable source, and although they fail to reach the giddy
heights of their potential, they are still competent and should be bought
with confidence.
Polished. Straw-yellow. Mid depth. True varietal nose. Clean and
mineral with distinct smoky, wet wool, gunflint and reductive aromas. Bone
dry on entry with good flesh that helps carry the austerity. There are
some Riesling like flavours here. Good structure and focus; just falls a
little short, perhaps. Taut, dry and mineral with fresh, juicy acidity and
good grip on the finish. Very good. Authentic. Lovely now. Will age
further. (12/08)
A sec-tendre vinified and raised
in barrique for twelve months. The label is by Philippe Berthommier, an
artist and family friend, and named after Jean’s daughter. Pale straw.
Bright. Clean but muted nose. The palate is more expressive. Dry on entry,
but with some noticeable residual sugar. Very good Chenin expression.
Linear, with fresh acidity and very good balance. There is evidence of the
oak, but this is very restrained. Approachable now, but would be expected
to age. (12/08)
Vendange
Tardive,
produced primarily from desiccated berries this vintage. Polished.
Mid-full. Straw/yellow/gold. Attractive, marzipan like nose, although
somewhat atypical Chenin: it smells and tastes more Alsatian than
2006
Coteaux du Vendômois Blanc ‘Le Haut Parc’
Vendange
Tardive, but
in 2006 mainly using botrytis affected fruit. Polished. Yellow/gold with
green hints. Very attractive nose, showing the botrytis with aromas of
quince and orange peel. Very good acidity on entry. Powerful and
concentrated with more flavours of orange rind, together with apples and
pears. There is an austere edge and noticeable volatile acidity. Chalky
textured and dry to finish. Less good on the palate and the VA may
increase with time. Best drunk young. (12/08)
Polished.
Deepening yellow/gold yet retains some green hints. Lovely, broad and open
nose with aromas of coconut. Rich, gentle and still holding up. On the
palate, still fresh and lively, with great delicacy. Surprisingly dry,
with flavours of quince. Still youthful, with good minerality, structure
and length. Old fashioned, well preserved with true Chenin character. A
curiosity. Drink now or should hold a few more years. (12/08)
Domaine du Carroir
Thoré-la-Rochette
T: + 33 2 54 72 81 72
F: + 33 2 54 72 77 13
vinbrazilier@wanadoo.fr
www.domaineducarroir.com