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Guide
to the Loire regions
Val du
Loir
Producer
Profiles – Coteaux du Vendômois
Jean
& Benoît Brazilier
Jean
Brazilier
Jovial
Jean Braziler has a tyrefitter’s grip of a handshake. Benoît, his rugby
playing son, represents the seventh generation of Braziliers to have
worked vineyards in Thoré-la-Rochette. He joined his father in 1997 and
although only in his mid-thirties is the current head of the wine growers
syndicate. Together, they farm 25 hectares of vines, a significant holding
in these parts. Ten of these are family owned and mostly replanted by Jean
himself over the past 25 years. In addition to the domaine vineyards, they
also rent a further ten hectares from a retired vigneron.
In total, fifteen hectares are under the appellation Coteaux du Vendômois,
but they also produce Vin de Pays using Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot
Blanc and some Gamay. For the appellation wines, they tend four hectares
of Chenin Blanc, five of Pineau d’Aunis and seven of Cabernet Franc.
There are also a couple of hectares of Pinot Noir planted too.
Wine
Overview
:
Apart from
the occasional moëlleux, all
grapes are harvested by machine. The old cellar is situated in a cave
directly below the plateau that hosts the vineyards. Today, this is used
for storage as a slightly rustic looking purpose built facility next to
the cave was erected in 1997. The majority of the wines are vinified in
fibre glass tanks, with 90% of ferments using indigenous yeast. In
addition to the white red and gris table
wines, some Méthode Traditionnelle
is produced from a base of Chenin Blanc. They sell part of their
production to the négoce.
The Wines
:
There is no doubt that the Braziliers are both an important and
serious producer within the appellation. The quality of the wines is good
and they are both honest and authentic. On the basis of the tasting below,
they are a reliable source, and although they fail to reach the giddy
heights of their potential, they are still competent and should be bought
with confidence.
2007
Coteaux du Vendômois Blanc ‘Tradition’
Polished. Straw-yellow. Mid depth. True varietal nose. Clean and
mineral with distinct smoky, wet wool, gunflint and reductive aromas. Bone
dry on entry with good flesh that helps carry the austerity. There are
some Riesling like flavours here. Good structure and focus; just falls a
little short, perhaps. Taut, dry and mineral with fresh, juicy acidity and
good grip on the finish. Very good. Authentic. Lovely now. Will age
further. (12/08)
2005 Coteaux du Vendômois Blanc ‘L’Ocre Jean’
A sec-tendre vinified and raised
in barrique for twelve months. The label is by Philippe Berthommier, an
artist and family friend, and named after Jean’s daughter. Pale straw.
Bright. Clean but muted nose. The palate is more expressive. Dry on entry,
but with some noticeable residual sugar. Very good Chenin expression.
Linear, with fresh acidity and very good balance. There is evidence of the
oak, but this is very restrained. Approachable now, but would be expected
to age. (12/08)
2006 Coteaux du Vendômois Rouge ‘Tradition’
40% Pineau d’Aunis/40% Cabernet Franc/20% Pinot Noir. Deep
appearance. Youthful purple rim. Broad nose. Attractive, with red and
black fruits. A little ‘savoury’ on the palate. Quite taut and grippy
with some herbal character. Falls a bit short and lacks definition and
structure. There is some good Pineau d’Aunis spice to the finish.
Slightly rustic in style. Drinking now, but will age further. (12/08)
2005 Coteaux du Vendômois Rouge ‘Rochambeau 1807-2007’
Born in Vendôme in 1725, Jean-Baptiste
Donatien de Vimeur, Comte de Rochambeau, was a French aristocrat, soldier
who participated in the American Civil War. The date signifies the
bicentenary of his death. This is a Cabernet Franc dominated, Pineau
d’Aunis blend. Broad and rich and shows the ripeness of the vintage on
the nose. Good concentration and slightly savoury. Soft on entry. Builds
well. Taut, with good structure and grip. Slightly warm on the finish.
This is distinctly more Cabernet Franc like, with very little evidence of
the Pineau d’Aunis. Chalky textured finish. This is drinking now, but
would benefit from keeping. (12/08)
2002 Coteaux du Vendômois Blanc ‘Cuvée du Clos Courtin’
Made in most
years, this is a demi-sec with
around 35 g/l of residual sugar and comes from vines within the commune.
Polished. Mid depth, straw-yellow. A bit rustic on the nose. Sweetness
shows on entry and is pretty simple with some flavours of liquorish. There
is a striking thread of acidity on the finish, but falls a bit short.
Simple sweet and sour profile. Drinking now, but should age. Not
particularly distinguished. (12/08)
2005
Coteaux du Vendômois Blanc ‘Le Haut Parc’
Vendange
Tardive,
produced primarily from desiccated berries this vintage. Polished.
Mid-full. Straw/yellow/gold. Attractive, marzipan like nose, although
somewhat atypical Chenin: it smells and tastes more Alsatian than
Loire
. Good texture and well balanced. A fresh, lively style. Very delicate and
refined. Drinking now, but will age and evolve. Around 120g/l residual
sugar. (12/08)
2006
Coteaux du Vendômois Blanc ‘Le Haut Parc’
Vendange
Tardive, but
in 2006 mainly using botrytis affected fruit. Polished. Yellow/gold with
green hints. Very attractive nose, showing the botrytis with aromas of
quince and orange peel. Very good acidity on entry. Powerful and
concentrated with more flavours of orange rind, together with apples and
pears. There is an austere edge and noticeable volatile acidity. Chalky
textured and dry to finish. Less good on the palate and the VA may
increase with time. Best drunk young. (12/08)
1976
Coteaux du Vendômois Blanc
Polished.
Deepening yellow/gold yet retains some green hints. Lovely, broad and open
nose with aromas of coconut. Rich, gentle and still holding up. On the
palate, still fresh and lively, with great delicacy. Surprisingly dry,
with flavours of quince. Still youthful, with good minerality, structure
and length. Old fashioned, well preserved with true Chenin character. A
curiosity. Drink now or should hold a few more years. (12/08)
1973 Coteaux du Vendômois Blanc
Polished.
Mid-full. Distinctly green hints. Riper and sweeter on the nose than the
1976. More confit, with old fashioned Chenin character. Rustic, but still
very pretty on the nose. Complex on entry with flavours of coconut, gorse
and marzipan with an impression of something green and herbal. Rich, but
still balanced by a strict acidity. There is still great freshness here.
Taut and mineral still, with a chalky texture. This is true Vouvray-like
Loire Chenin. No rush to drink. Very good. (12/08)
Jean & Benoît Brazilier
Domaine du Carroir
17
Rue des Ecoles
Thoré-la-Rochette
T: + 33 2 54 72 81 72
F: + 33 2 54 72 77 13
vinbrazilier@wanadoo.fr
www.domaineducarroir.com
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