to the Loire regions
profiles - Jasnières and Coteaux du
mother was from the village
and he was bought up on modest means. He moved to
and made his fortune as a chemist, owning his own laboratory in the city.
From 1976, he began acquiring vineyards and land, mainly in Jasnières,
but also in the Coteaux du Loir. By 1985 he had a total of ten hectares as
well as owning four different caves around the region. He lives in Parigne
l’Eveque, about 15km from Le Mans
and is a ‘weekend’ farmer. In the early 1990s he began to start
leasing out some of his vineyards. In 1994 he rented vines to Eric
Nicolas, albeit for one season only, before Boulay elected to take back
the vines and offer them to someone else. His current tenants include
Philippe Sevault and Christine de Mianville, and more recently he has
started to sell of some of his vines. He has a wealth of older vintages,
back to 1989, available for sale at his cellar and in late 2008 began to
sell these off. His reason, when interviewed in the local press, was
partly to reduce his stocks and partly to give the world an opportunity to
taste some older vintages.
He has three daughters aged between their late teens and early 20s, and a
cuvée is named after each: Lucie (sec), Camille (demi-sec) and Louise (doux).
The style of the wine apparently describes the demeanour of each child.
vines are between 15 and 25 years old and primarily planted to eight
hectares of Chenin with one of Chardonnay. He also has one combined
hectare of Gamay and Pineau d’Aunis from which he makes a single red
blend. The vines in Jasnières are in Clos
des Mollières, Sous-le-Bois and
Clos Saint Jacques. Boulay also has holdings in Marçon for Coteaux du
Loir making both red and white. Three quarters of the vines are hand
harvested. The vinification cellar is in La Chartre-sur-le-Loir, next to
those of Joël Gigou, although the stock is kept at a different cave in
Poncé-sur-Loir. All the wines are raised in barrel under the aegis of Régis
Wine Overview :
distinguished sites, the wines themselves are ordinary and disappointing.
The older vintages below, all of which are still available, are more a
curiosity and give an impression of the way the wines evolve, but I
suspect they were never great to start with. There are many more old
vintages in the cellars than I have tasted, so there may well be a hidden
gem. Who knows? The prices are inexpensive enough to buy a range and
fashioned, traditional style of Chenin. Quite firm acidity marked by some
wood. There are some light vanilla and coconut flavours. A touch dried out
on the finish. Drink soon. (12/08)
2005 Coteaux du
some spice to the fruit. Austere, mineral edge with some grainy texture to
the tannins. Quite phenolic. Should age, but undistinguished. (12/08)
2005 Coteaux du Loir Rosé
Jasnières ‘Cuvée Camille’
Yellow/gold. Quite rich on the nose, but closed. Dry and mineral on entry,
but with obvious sweetness on the mid palate. Good weight and balance with
a good thread of acidity. Well textured and approachable now, but would
age further. (12/08)
gives no indication of the style. Clear and bright. Mid depth yellow.
Quite closed on the nose. The palate suggests a petit
moëlleux, in style. Delicate, with a fine acidity. It lacks some of
the concentration and definition one would expect in a distinguished year.
A little phenolic on the finish. Sweetness shows. The wine is drinking now
and should age a few years. (12/08)
2005 Jasnières ‘Cuvée Louise’
dry. Austere with severe acidity for such a rich year. Chalky textured and
quite mineral. Ordinary. (12/08)
2003 Jasnières ‘Clos Saint Jacques’
Mid-full yellow-straw. Rich and mature on the nose. Palate shows flavours
of bruised and baked spiced apples. Not a classic for a great year. Drink
1997 Jasnières ‘Clos des Mollières’
Mid-pale. Distinct green tinge to appearance. Reductive nose, although
though at this age, I’d like to believe it was the influence of silex...
Serious and very mineral. Juicy. A bit pithy on the finish. Flavours of
baked apples. Drinking now and should hold, although unlikely to evolve
1990 Jasnières ‘Clos Saint Jacques’
100% Pineau d’Aunis. Bright. Light orange/brown appearance. Good graduation to
garnet rim. Mature nose, not dissimilar to an old Pinot Noir. Very gentle
on entry with soft tannins and acidity. Mature with some signs of
oxidation, but still drinkable, with the gamey flavours of an old Pinot.
There is still a little touch of spice on the finish. Drinking now. Won’t improve.
1989 Coteaux du Loir Rouge ‘Cuvée de la Charrière
Domaine la Tendrière
T/F : + 33 2 43 75 82 22 (domicile)
T/F : + 33 2 43 44 49 27 (cave)
P : + 33 6 86 96 81 38