Guide to the Loire regions

Val du Loir

Producer profiles - Jasnières and Coteaux du Loir

Ludovic Bidault (2006)

Bidault - father and son and chestnut

Ludovic Bidault is a local boy. He attended agricultural college in Montoire-sur-le-Loir before starting this venture at the age of 22 in the old cellars behind the Château de la Tuffières, last used in 1995 by Jean-Baptiste Pinon. Bidault’s great-grandfather was a tonnelier in Lhomme until he retired some 50 years ago. His grandfather owned 28 ares in Lhomme and made wine for the family table. His father worked at the radiator factory in La Chartre.  

Wine Overview :
Bidault farms the family’s 28 ares of Chenin and Pineau d’Aunis and rents a further 3.5 hectares from ten different owners, all of which are based in Lhomme, and where he makes both Jasnières and Coteaux du Loir wines. The Jasnières comes from parcels in les Mollières as well as le Clos des Jasnières. All the Coteaux du Loir wines come from either the plateau above Jasnières or at the foot of the slope. The plantings are an equal split of white to red, although there is some Gamay included here, which is vinified as rosé and sold off as a Vin de Table. Vines age from ten years up to 120 years. The cellar is rustic and mostly untouched since Pinon last made wine here. Bidault uses a combination of tanks and has reintroduced the ancient chestnut barrels used by his grandfather.

The Wines :
Reading through my notes below, you will see that I am not inspired with confidence for the future.

2006 Coteaux du Loir Rosé
Receives eight hours of maceration. Distinct sulphur dioxide on the nose. Unknit, raw, green apple flavours. This is very old fashioned in style. The SO2 and acidity should preserve this for years, but it is not particularly pleasant now. Like a Rosé de Loire. Bone dry, grippy and phenolic. (12/08)

2006 Coteaux du Loir Blanc
Distinct green and baked apple on the nose and palate. Strict acidity. Taut, with the sensation of unripe fruit. Very tight, mineral and old fashioned. Should age; again, if the level of SO2 and acidity are to go by, but not an enjoyable experience. (12/08)

2007 Coteaux du Loir Blanc
Pale, with green hints. Dirty, dry and rustic nose. Taut and severe with some signs of premature ageing. The SO2 burns. Very rustic. (12/08)

2007 Jasnieres ‘Les Mollières’
Richer, riper and more flesh. Rounded and less severe than all previous wines. Better balanced and a decent texture. Good minerality, although still essentially green on the finish. Chalky and a touch phenolic. (12/08)

2007 Coteaux du Loir Rouge
Bright. Pale appearance. Dull and not very expressive on the nose. Light on entry and distinctly savoury and organic. Dry tannins to finish. Stalky and unripe. A shame. (12/08)

Ludovic Bidault
Domaine de Salvert
P: + 33 6 85 80 93 66

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