to the Loire regions
profiles - Jasnières and Coteaux du
- father and son and chestnut
Bidault is a local boy. He attended agricultural college in
Montoire-sur-le-Loir before starting this venture at the age of 22 in the
old cellars behind the Château de la Tuffières, last used in 1995 by
Jean-Baptiste Pinon. Bidault’s great-grandfather was a tonnelier
in Lhomme until he retired some 50 years ago. His grandfather owned 28
ares in Lhomme and made wine for the family table. His father worked at
the radiator factory in La Chartre.
farms the family’s 28 ares of Chenin and Pineau d’Aunis and rents a
further 3.5 hectares from ten different owners, all of which are based in
Lhomme, and where he makes both Jasnières and Coteaux du Loir wines. The
Jasnières comes from parcels in les
Mollières as well as le Clos
des Jasnières. All the Coteaux du Loir wines come from either the
plateau above Jasnières or at the foot of the slope. The plantings are an
equal split of white to red, although there is some Gamay included here,
which is vinified as rosé and sold off as a Vin de Table. Vines age from
ten years up to 120 years. The cellar is rustic and mostly untouched since
Pinon last made wine here. Bidault uses a combination of tanks and has
reintroduced the ancient chestnut barrels used by his grandfather.
Wine Overview :
through my notes
below, you will see that I am not inspired with confidence for the future.
The Wines :
eight hours of maceration. Distinct sulphur dioxide on the nose. Unknit,
raw, green apple flavours. This is very old fashioned in style. The SO2
and acidity should preserve this for years, but it is not particularly
pleasant now. Like a Rosé de Loire. Bone dry, grippy and phenolic.
2006 Coteaux du Loir Rosé
green and baked apple on the nose and palate. Strict acidity. Taut, with
the sensation of unripe fruit. Very tight, mineral and old fashioned.
Should age; again, if the level of SO2 and acidity are to go by, but not
an enjoyable experience. (12/08)
green hints. Dirty, dry and rustic nose. Taut and severe with some signs
of premature ageing. The SO2 burns. Very rustic. (12/08)
2007 Coteaux du
riper and more flesh. Rounded and less severe than all previous wines.
Better balanced and a decent texture. Good minerality, although still
essentially green on the finish. Chalky and a touch phenolic. (12/08)
2007 Jasnieres ‘Les Mollières’
appearance. Dull and not very expressive on the nose. Light on entry and
distinctly savoury and organic. Dry tannins to finish. Stalky and unripe.
A shame. (12/08)
2007 Coteaux du Loir Rouge
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