Antoine
Vivier, La Tour Saint Jean (2003)
Antoine
Vivier is a part time vigneron
and full time export salesman for a Danish chemical company. Until 2000,
he was living with his wife, Jeanne and their three (now four) children in
Paris, although he craved a career change. The opportunity came when his uncle,
Jean-Yves Bourdage was looking to take in a partner. Vivier gave up his
job and relocated, creating La Tour Saint-Jean, naming it after the old
presbytery that the family bought in the centre of Rochefort-sur-Loire
following the retirement of the local Pastor. Essentially self taught,
Vivier, who had studied agriculture at college enrolled for a six month
crash course in oenology at the Institut
National de la Recherche Agronomique (INRA) in Angers and put together
a small cave on the Quai de
Louet in Rochefort. Bourdage has a significant three hectare holding in
the Quarts-de-Chaume, and this is what Vivier had intended to farm with
his uncle. However, in his own words, he ‘came for the Quarts-de-Chaume
and discovered Savennières’. His
first vintage in the appellation was in 2003 and came from vines he rented
from Baron Brincard. However, financial pressures and some differences of
opinion with his uncle meant that Vivier needed to reduce his commitments
and he rejoined his old company. Today he maintains a total of five
hectares, including 1.7 hectares in Savennières. He has also patched up
his relationship with his uncle which allows him to juggle his day job
with a real passion for wine.
Wine
Overview:
Vivier’s
first vintage in Savennières was something of a baptism of fire: 2003 was
the year of the heat wave and where some managed to pick the harvest in a
single trie, Vivier, unsure of his actions, went through the vineyard ten
times! All the wines here are fermented in old 400 litre barrels using
indigenous yeasts and aged for 24 months before bottling.
The
Wines:
The
2006 and 2007 tasted as barrel samples show promise, although there is the
impression that Vivier’s success here is more attributable to luck than
to any real winemaking abilities. These are quite solid wines and very
modern in style. Despite becoming a part time vigneron,
his Savennières are still worth seeking out.
2005
Savennières
Pale
appearance. Very attractive, aromatic and fragrant nose of candy floss and
honeycomb. Dry on entry with good minerality. Honeyed with good oak
integration. There is a good backbone of acidity behind the fruit. This is
already approachable and attractive now, but the structure suggests it
will evolve well in bottle. Picked with 30% botrytis. (02/08)
2004
Savennières
Mid
depth. Some green hints. Dry, steely and good minerality on the nose and
shows no obvious sign of wood. The palate is quite lean and not currently
very expressive. Taut, but a little monotone, although retains good
texture on the mid palate. Minty. Good length, but lacks a bit of acidity.
This is currently closed up, but should evolve. Drink 3-5 years. (02/08)
2003
Savennières
Picked
with 50% botrytis. Polished. Yellow/gold. Deep appearance. Rich and
concentrated on both nose and palate. The oak is a bit planky. Broad on
entry and lacks balancing acidity. Flabby and fat. Unlikely to age
further. (02/08)
Antoine
Vivier
Rochefort
T:
+33 2 41 74 92 05
F:
+33 41 74 92 0502
latoursaintjean@aol.com
latoursaintjean@aol.com