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Guide
to the Loire regions
Saint-Pourçain
Grower
Profiles

François
Ray
François
Ray
It was Antoine-Camille Ray who
first started making wine in the commune of Saulcet in 1929. François
represents the third generation, after taking over from his father in
1983, after returning form his viticulture and oenology studies in Beaune.
Until then, viticulture played a minor part in the family business, being
more concerned with growing cereals. It was Jean and Paulette, the parents
of François who, in 1969, first starting to bottle their wine. Today, it
is François and his wife Guylaine and their son, Philippe, who run the
domaine.
Since 1983, the Ray’s vineyard holding have more than doubled, from
seven to 15.5 hectares, although they also maintain 37ha of mixed crops,
including sugar beet, which François jokes is a natural part of the
Saint-Pourçain terroir, since
the sugar produced is used to chaptalise the wines in the more challenging
years. The vineyards are
spread over eight different parcels in the communes of Saulcet,
Louchy-Montfand and Verneuil-en-Bourbonnais. The 9,25 hectares of Gamay
tends to be planted on the clay-granite soils between Saulcet and Verneuil,
whilst the 2.7 hectares of Pinot Noir are on clay and limestone towards
Louchy-Montfand. The white varieties are made up of 1.8ha of Chardonnay,
1ha Tressallier and 45 ares of Sauvignon.
The wines are fermented and raised in a combination of cement, fibre-glass
and stainless steel tanks, with the token oak aged wine at the end. The
white wine range starts with the Blanc
Tradition which is a fairly classic (if illegal) blend of 50%
Chardonnay complimented by 25% Tressalier and 25% Sauvignon. Chopine,
which can be found on the restaurant tables around the region is sold in
50cl bottles and roughly corresponds to the Tradition blend. Both are
clean, light and faintly aromatic. The next two whites are anything but
classic: Le Coquillard is 80% Chardonnay and 20% Tressallier and is only
marketed by Ray when he thinks it is mature (in early 2010 the current
release was the 2006 vintage). Le
Grand Jardin is the polar opposite with 80% Tressallier and 20%
Chardonnay and is also released late. It’s not unlike a minor Chablis or
an Auxerrois out of Alsace. There is a brace of rosés. The Rosé
Tradition is vinified using half pressurage
direct and half gris with a
short contact on the Gamay skins. It is dry, mineral and taut. The Rai de Soleil is a gris
produced from a very light pressing. Although vinous and well made but
doesn’t appear to be particularly durable and needs to be consumed
within a few months of bottling to conserve the freshness.
The Rouge Tradition is from 90% Gamay and 10% Pinot Noir, derived from
vines on clay and limestone soils. It receives a short, six day cuvaison
and is light and a little rustic. La
Font Gervin has been produced since the 1993 vintage and takes its
name from a lieu-dit at the top
of the commune of Saulcet. The wine is based on 70% Pinot Noir and 30
Gamay. It receives a two week cuvaison and then passes through oak for
three months. As a result, the wines appear to have been stripped of their
fruit a little and are distinctly sous-bois
in character. The Cuvée des Gaumes
is 75% Gamay and 25% Pinot Noir with the former coming from the clay
and granite soils of Verneuil and the Pinot Noir originating from 3
hectares in Saulcet and Louchy-Montfand. This too receives a long cuvaison,
but appears to hold its fruit better than the above.
In addition to the ‘proper’ wines, Ray has developed a secondary
income by creating some wine (or grape juice) based beverages. They are
worthy of mention. The Coquillon Vendanges d’Eté is Chardonnay juice mixed with
about 20% honey. This mead-like ‘wine’ is fortified to 14.5% alcohol
and is recommended by François to be served as an aperitif and as a
starter with foie gras, or blue cheese. Orang’Ray
is a maceration of wine from Gamay with bitter oranges and vanilla, and Nois’Ray
is wine macerated with walnuts and raised in barriques. There is also some
balsamic style vinegar made from Gamay and a bottle fermented fizz
produced from Tressallier and Chardonnay.
François Ray is quietly spoken, considering everything before offering an
answer. He comes across as serious, but also broadminded and happy to
offer an opinion and certainly one of the lucid grower in the appellation.
The notable thing about his wines is that they are generally released much
later than those of his fellow vignerons.
The whites particularly present a goûte
spécifique that some tasters might dismiss as oxidation. The reds are
also released quite late, which is in some ways more detremental than the
whites, as these do appear to shed their fruit early on and become lighter
and more tertiary. I’d still put Ray’s wines within my top flight of
producers, even if the wines won’t necessarily suit everyone’s taste.
Cave François Ray
8 Rue Louis Neillot
Venteuil
Saulcet
T : + 33 4 70 45 35 46
F : + 33 4 70 45 64 96
ray.francois@akeonet.com
www.vins-saintpourcain-caveray.fr
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