Saint-Pourçain
Eating, drinking and Sleeping
There is a distinct lack of places to recommend
within the immediate vicinity of Saint-Pourçain, so the recommendation
here is to stay outside the region and rather travel in. The various
dining options are listed from north to south through the various
communes, In addition, a short list of places to eat and stay around the
forest
of
Tronçais
can be found at the end of this section.
Souvigny
Restaurant – La
Ferme de Jeanne
Alain Gouterand
T : + 33 4 70 42 99 98
This busy lunch time restaurant
is highly recommended. It serves a menu
du jour that is both simple and wholesome. The friendly patron makes
time to come from the kitchen and chat to diners. The wine list is limited
although it is possible to drink the local wines of Domaine Gallas. Open
for lunch and dinner. Inexpensive and recommended. (Last dined 02/10)
Restaurant – Auberge des Tilleurs
Lydia and Christian Letolle
Place Saint-Eloi
T : + 33 4 70 43 60 70
Situated at the top of the
village, Lydia and Christian Letolle have been serving their take on
traditional Bourbonnais cuisine since 1988. Closed Sunday evening and
Monday. Annual closing in February.
Besson

Bar-Tabac-Restaurant – L’Auberge
Gourmand
Jocelyn et Thierry Barral
1 Avenue des Acacias
T : + 33 4 70 42 82 04
This bar acts as the central
hub of village life. Open from 07h00, it’s open for lunch and dinner
every day except Wednesday.
Monétay-sur-Allier
Restaurant – Le
Belvédère
RN9
Les Plachis
T/F : + 33 4 70 42 09 58
Overlooking the Allier on the
Route Nationale just to the south of the village. This two roomed
restaurant serves traditional cuisine, Coq-au-Vin de Saint-Pourçain,
friture de l’Allier and cuisses de grenouilles.
Meillard
Restaurant – L’Auberge
Gourmande
Le Bourg
Meillard
T : + 33 4 70 42 06 09
Auberge.gourmande@wanadoo.fr
A pretty looking maison
Bourbonnais next to the church in this quiet hamlet. There can’t be
much passing trade… Michelin lauded, but closed on Monday, Tuesday and
Wednesday. Annual closing is first two weeks of July and autumn and spring
half-term holidays. Best phone ahead to make sure they are open at all.
Verneuil-en-Bourbonnais
Chez Agnès
T : + 33 4 70 45 93 99
Agnès runs this rustic little
eatery serving Italian and regional dishes.
Saint-Pourçain-sur-Sioule
Sadly, Saint-Pourçain is no Sancerre or Saumur when
it comes to the local options for dining and sleeping. You will find the
short list of what is available listed below.
Hotel-Restaurant – Le Chêne Vert
35
boulevard Ledru-Rollin
Saint-Pourçain
T: + 33 4 70 47 77 00
F: + 33 4 70 47 77 39
Hotel.chenevert@wanadoo.fr
www.hotel-restaurant-chene-vert.com
It’s
hard to believe this place on Saint-Pourçain’s busy main road once
enjoyed such high praise and, at one point in the 1970s, a Michelin star.
From first glance, it looks like a run down motel in any dead-end American
town; it certainly doesn’t exude confidence for the casual visitor to
wander in off the street. But the Chêne Vert is a long-standing
institution, being included in the Michelin Guide since at least the
1920s.
Robin Yapp extols the virtues of this hostelry in his book, ‘Drilling
for Wine’ written in the late 1970s. The then chef-proprietor, and
holder of the Michelin rosette, was Jean Giraudon. It is now run by
Jean-Guy Siret, although its 29 rooms, most of which were last refurbished
in the 1970s are, apparently, badly in need of an update.
The hotel is closed in January and restaurant is not
open on Sundays except in summer. The dining room appears smart and offers
a good selection of local wines. I didn’t eat here during my visit to
the region in February 2010, but received mixed reports from the growers
themselves. I might find the courage to wander in and ask for a table the
next time I am in town…
Restaurant – Brasserie du Cours
Valéry
Thiollier
43 Boulevard Ledru-Rollin
T: + 33 4 70 45 30 03
Valery.thiollier@orange.fr
This modest looking brasserie (where you can also
play the Loto and back a horse) is on the main road, close to the market
hall. I’ve heard conflicting reports on the food, but at least one vigneronne
told me it was her favourite restaurant in town (not that there’s too
much competition…).
Restaurant – Auberge du Pont
2
quai de la Ronde
T: + 33 4 70 45 31 08
This modest bistro which offers traditional cuisine
is to be found next to the bridge over the Sioule. Closed in April and
September.
Retail
Opportunity
– Aux Produits Regionaux –
Bernard
Odile
Bernard
41 rue Ledru-Rollin
T: + 33 4 70 45 30 10
A shop on the busy main road that is open seven days
a week selling a range of products manufactured in and around the
Bourbonnais
. One side doubles up as a wine shop offering a good range from the
majority of the independent growers. Just watch out for the rather grumpy
proprietor, Madame Bernard: service without a smile…
Saulcet
Restaurant – Les
Quatre Saisons
Valérie
et Pierre Cantal
6 rue du Tilleul
T: + 33 4 70 45 32 69
F: + 33 4 70 47 51 72
This typical village hostelry offers both a
traditional and gastronomic menu and is a popular hang-out for local
vineyard workers. The chef-proprietor comes with a good reputation, having
previously worked at the Chêne Vert in town. Open every lunch time except
Wednesday and for dinner on Friday and Saturday night.
Gîte – Les Burliers
Domaine
Gallas
T: + 33 4 70 45 99 40
Gaec.gallas@03.sideral.fr
www.domaine-gallas.com
Léone Gallas runs this self catering property from
the courtyard of the family wine business.
Chantelle
Hotel-Restaurant – Hôtel de la Poste
Maryse
and Michel Séchaud
5 rue de la République
T: + 33 4 70 56 62 12
www.val-de-sioule.com/poste
As the name suggests, the hotel is established in
the ancient post office close to the centre of this town. The restaurant
has a shaded terrace in summer and there are 12 rooms, although some have
limited facilities.
Charroux
Retail – Huiles
et Moutardes de Charroux
Claude
et Simone Maenner
3 rue de la Poulaillerie
Charroux
T/F: + 33 4 70 56 87 61
Huiles.moutardes@wanadoo.fr
www.huiles-et-moutardes.com
www.moutarde-charroux.com
Claude and Simone Maenner arrived in Charroux in
1992 and immediately set up their artisan operation. Today, their products
are seen on the best shelves around the region and their fame goes as far
as Roanne and the kitchen of Troisgros. Closer to home, Valérie Saignie
chef-proprietor of the Ferme Saint-Sébastien in the village utilizes it
in one of her specialities: macaroons. Mustards made with white wine
vinegar originate specifically from Tressallier produced in the Saint-Pourçain
appellation. Another, La Moutarde
Pourpre, makes use of the juice of Gamay grapes from the same source.
Retail – La Remise
2
rue de la Paille
Charroux
T: + 33 4 70 56 88 71
P: + 33 6 77 25 19 79
laremisecharroux@orange.fr
www.laremisecharroux.com
This proper épicerie
is owned and run by gourmet and former Parisien pharmacist, Michel
Bougard. Expect to find a wide selection of local culinary and vinous
products in store.
Restaurant – La
Ferme Saint-Sébastien
Valérie
Saignie et Philippe Charvet
Chemin de Bourion
Charroux
T: + 33 4 70 56 88 83
F: + 33 4 70 56 86 66
www.la-ferme-saint-sebastien.com
Valérie Saignie was born in Cantal and attended
hotel school in La Chaise-Dieu in the Haute-Loire before working her
apprenticeship in some of
France
’s most lauded kitchens, including Michel Bras in Laguiole in the late
1980s. After a year in
England
to brush up her language skills, she returned to
France
for a spell working at another starred establishment in
Burgundy
. Valérie and her gentle and enthusiastic husband, Philippe, arrived in
Charroux in 1994 to establish Le Ferme Saint-Sébastien, an ancient farm
just outside the original fortifications of the medieval cité.
Valérie’s skills are in her patisserie, but the quality of the food
shines through the meal. The menu is quite short and can appear a little
intimidating as it is written in heart-felt but colloquial French. The
advice is just sit back and let it all happen. It’s a very warm and
relaxed place with a strong stylised paysan décor. Philippe works the
floor and clearly has a passion for wine which comes through in the
eclectic selection on offer. There is good local representation and a
strong
Loire
presence overall.
Open Wednesday to Sunday and Tuesday too in July and August. There is a salon
de thé alongside the main restaurant. Very highly recommended and
offers very good value.
(Last dined 02/10)
Chambres d’Hôtes –
La Grange
du Belvédère
9
rue du Nord
Charroux
T/F : + 33 4 70 56 80 02
www.lagrangedubelvedere.com
She’s a solicitor he’s an architect From York.
Colleen and David Sharpe visited
France
for the first time in 1975 and dreamed of living there. They have been
installed in Charroux since 2004. Their first project was repairing an old
colombage in the village before
turning their attention to this ancient maison
Bourbonnais
which has since been converted into a four roomed guest house with a 4
Star rating. It comes highly recommended by Philippe Charvet for guests
dining at Le Ferme Saint-Sébastien which is just a five minute walk away.
Valignat
Chambres d’Hôtes - de l’Ormet
Patricia
et Pierre Laederich
L’Ormet
Valignat
T: + 33 4 70 58 57 23
F: + 33 4 70 58 57 19
lormet@wanadoo.fr
www.chateaudeloremet.com
This four roomed
manoir is close to the southern reaches of the Saint-Pourçain
appellation and the gorges of the Sioule. The medieval
village
of
Charroux
is just 12km away. Open April to November.
Vichy
For
anyone wishing to explore the wine region of Saint-Pourçain, there is
very little beyond the draw of the wine cellars to attract the casual
visitor. However, within about thirty minutes drive, one can be in
Vichy
. This once faded gem of a town is doing its best to shake off its image
of a tardy old spa resort and its connections to the État Français,
the Nazi collaborating government that resided here between July 1940 and
August 1944. It’s comes highly recommended for its wealth of quality
hotels and dining experiences.
Hotel - Sofitel
Vichy Spa Hotel & Resort - Les Célestins
111
boulevard des Etats-Unis
T: + 33 4 70 30 82 00
info@destinationvichy.com
www.destinationvichy.com
Restaurant - Le N3
Sofitel
Les Célestins
111 boulevard des Etats-Unis
T: + 33
4 70 30 82 28
The N3 is the new gourmet restaurant opened by chef
Pierre-Yves Lorgeoux after Michelin starred Jacques Decoret defected to
his own place in the centre of town in 2009.
Restaurant – Le
Bistro des Célestins
Sofitel
Les Célestins
111 boulevard des Etats-Unis
T: + 33 4 70 30 82 27
The
Bistrot des Célestins is a classic Parisian-style café which offers
traditional cuisine. The food is served in generous helpings and the menu
is full of old favourites. The wine list is short but does offer wines
from the Saint-Pourçain cooperative and from François Ray. Recommended.
Not too expensive given its high profile location.
(Last dined 02/10)
Hotel-Restaurant
- Aletti Palace Hotel
3 place Joseph Aletti
T: + 33 4 70 30 20 20
F: + 33 4 70 98 13 82
contact@aletti.fr
www.hotel-aletti.fr
This attractive early 20th Century hotel is situated opposite the
casino and served as the headquarters of the War Ministry in Vichy France.
It's operated by Best Western, but don't let that put you off. It's a
little expensive, but the rooms are clean, modern and air-conditioned. It
serves as a good base for exploring the town. The restaurant with its
attractive high ceiling serves classic French cuisine, although there is
only a splattering of local dishes.
(Last stayed: 02/10)
Restaurant – Les
Caudalies
Emmanuel
et Lucie Basset
7-9 rue Besse
T: + 33 4 70 32 13 22
lescaudalies.vichy@orange.fr
This restaurant-brasserie was opened in 2009 by Manu
and Lucie Basset having returned from working for seven years at the
renowned Mirabelle restaurant in Hampshire’s
New Forest
. The service is crisp, formal but friendly; the carte small but well chosen with a good representation of local
wines, including a few interesting curiosities thrown in from further
afield. The food is classic and serious but not pretentious; well cooked,
elegantly presented and certainly worthy of a Michelin star. (Last dined
02/10)
Restaurant with rooms - Jacques Decoret
15
rue du Parc
T: + 33 4 70 97 65 06
www.jacquesdecoret.com
Jacques Decoret, holder of the prestigious title of
Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) is also an ex-chef de Partie at Maison
Troisgros in Roanne. This one star Michelin recently relocated to a
refurbished Napoléon III chalet opposite the Parc des Sources in the
centre of the town. Guillaume is their young and enthusiastic sommelier.
Closed Tuesday and Wednesday and for three weeks in February and again
from mid August to early September. There are five well appointed, if
somewhat expensive, rooms.
Restaurant – L’Hippocampe
3
boulevard de Russie
T/F: + 33 4 70 97 68 37
Set in one of the villas on a leafy boulevard, this
is the place to eat fish and seafood in
Vichy
. Chef-proprietor Rémy Bourgeois is honoured with the privilege of
serving huîtres from the Gillardeau family, based on the Atlantic coast
between
La Rochelle
and the Île d’Oléron. The greatest oysters in the world? Probably.
Closed Sunday evening, Monday and Tuesday lunch. Their annual closure in
November. Prices are reasonable, but can depend on the quality of fish (or
size and quantity of oysters) you choose. Recommended.
(Last dined 02/10)
Restaurant – La Rotonde – La
Table de Marlène
Sur
les bords du Lac D'Allier
Boulevard deLattre de Tassigny
T
: + 33 4.70.97.85.42
F : + 33 4.70.97.85.43
info@restaurantlarotonde-vichy.com
www.restaurantlarotonde-vichy.com
Operated by Bruno Cassard since 2009, there are
three separate opportunities to dine at this complex set within the
impressive surroundings of
Vichy
’s yacht club. On the first floor is
La Table de Marlène, a formal restaurant that was awarded a Michelin
star in the 2010 Guide. The separate bistro, La
Rotonde, has a terrasse overlooking the man-made lake, and the third
dining option is Les Gourmandises
Volcaniques de Marlène, a tearoom serving a wide selection of
pastries. The bistro is closed Monday and La Table de Marlène is closed
Monday and Tuesday.
Restaurant – Michelangelo.S
44
rue Eugène-Gilbert
T/F: + 33 4 70 32 85 15
www.michelangelo-s.fr
I don’t normally set out to eat Italian food when
I am in
France
, but this place came with several recommendations, so we were curious to
try it out. Michelangelo serves an excellent plate of innovative anti-pasti,
although the pasta dishes could be better.
The list is exclusively Italian with all the wines
being available for retail sale, which must be an interesting concept for
its essentially French clientele. Open Thursday, Friday and Saturday
evening and every lunchtime, except Wednesday. Inexpensive and
recommended.
(Last dined 02/10)
Restaurant
- Le Petit Bouchon
1 & 3 rue de Banville
Vichy
T: + 33 4 70 31 21 04
Modest, but very busy bistro specialising in the cuisine of the
Lyonnaise all served in ample portions. This is good, honest, simple food
bought to the table by friendly, chatty waiters. There are plenty of wines
by the glass, although you'll struggle to find anything local. Good value
and recommended. (Last dined: 06/09)

Restaurant - Le Bungalow
1 quai Allier
Vichy
T: + 33 4 70 98 51 93
www.lebungalow.fr
This wooden chalet is sitated on the banks of the
Allier
and forms part of a larger operation that has an function room and a more
modest brasserie attached either side. The décor is very 21st
century, as is the trendy background music. The menu is limited, formal
and expensive. I haven’t dined at Le Bungalow, but if the standard of
the cuisine is similar to that of the brasserie next door (the food comes
out of the same kitchen) then it is best avoided.
(Last dined at the brasserie 02/10)
Hotel
- de la Plage
11 - 13 avenue Pierre Coulon
Vichy
T: + 33 4 70 98 18 48
F: + 33 4 70 97 72 63
hotel-de-la-plage5@wanadoo.fr
www.vichyevasion.com
Modern 45 room hotel that has a tie in with Le Bungalow restaurant,
above.
Hotel-Restaurant
– Les Nations
13 Boulevard de Russie
T: + 33 4 70 98 21 63
contact-lesnations@lesnations.com
www.lesnations.com
Situated in a leafy boulevard in the centre of
Vichy
, Les Nations is a 71 room hotel in an Art-Deco building.
Retail
Opportunity
- Aux Fromages de France
14 rue de l'Hôtel des Postes
Vichy
T: + 33 4 70 31 65 64
Patricia Gitenait runs this lovely cheese shop in the centre of the
town.
Meaulne
Hotel-Restaurant
– Le Manoir du Mortier
Catherine
Greninger
T : + 33 4 70 06 99 87
www.manoirdumortier.com
Situated three hours from Paris
and in the northern Bourbonnais, this 18th Century mansion is set in 50
hectares of parkland. The restaurant serves its own organically grown
vegetables and offers meat sourced locally as well as wines from the
region. It’s a sound base for visiting the forest of Tronçais. Expect
to pay upwards of € 125 for a double room.
Around
the Forest of Tronçais
For those heading north and
wishing to spend some time in the 10,000 hectare forest, these four places
all come recommended.
Isle-et-Bardais
Restaurant – Auberge
du Rond-Gardien
Caroline et Jérôme Mazur
T : + 33 4 70 06 19 50
At the crossroads of two major
roads that traverse the forest. It’s a popular place with the local
hunting fraternity.
Saint-Bonnet-Tronçais
Hotel-Restaurant – Le
Tronçais
12 avenue Nicolas-Rambourg
T : + 33 4 70 06 11 95
This 18th Century lodge is
situated in parkland and on the banks of a small lake. It is relatively
inexpensive at between € 48 and € 75 a night for a room.
Cérilly
Hotel-Restaurant – Chez
Chaumat
Nicole et Gilles Friaud
Place Péron
T : + 33 4 70 67 52 21
This inexpensive eight roomed
lodge provides a base for exploring the region. The restaurant makes a
point of serving local and seasonal ingredients.
Caviste’s
C.U.V.E.
20 route de Varennes
Saint-Pourçain-sur-Sioule
T : + 33 4 70 45 62 97
Sells mainly bag-in-box and
local wines in bottle solely from the co-operative. There is a limited
selection of wines from elsewhere in France.
Au Fin Palais (Hédiard)
8 bis, rue Wilson
Vichy
T : + 33 4 70 98 24 75
www.hediard.fr
Noted as a caviste in all the
brochures, but Hédiard is more a purveyor of luxury comestibles with wine
as an incremental part of their business.
La Cave d’Agnès
23 rue Lucas et Marché Couvert
Vichy
T : + 33 4 70 96 17 41
Small but busy little wine shop
in the centre of Vichy.
La Cave de la Mairie (Intercaves)
13 place de l’hôtel-de-Ville
Vichy
T : + 33 4 70 98 18 20
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