Saint-Pourçain
Eating, drinking and Sleeping
There is a distinct lack of places to recommend
within the immediate vicinity of Saint-Pourçain, so the recommendation
here is to stay outside the region and rather travel in. The various
dining options are listed from north to south through the various
communes, In addition, a short list of places to eat and stay around the
Souvigny
Alain Gouterand
T : + 33 4 70 42 99 98
This busy lunch time restaurant
is highly recommended. It serves a menu
du jour that is both simple and wholesome. The friendly patron makes
time to come from the kitchen and chat to diners. The wine list is limited
although it is possible to drink the local wines of Domaine Gallas. Open
for lunch and dinner. Inexpensive and recommended. (Last dined 02/10)
Place Saint-Eloi
T : + 33 4 70 43 60 70
Situated at the top of the
village, Lydia and Christian Letolle have been serving their take on
traditional Bourbonnais cuisine since 1988. Closed Sunday evening and
Monday. Annual closing in February.
Bar-Tabac-Restaurant – L’Auberge
Gourmand
Jocelyn et Thierry Barral
1 Avenue des Acacias
T : + 33 4 70 42 82 04
This bar acts as the central
hub of village life. Open from 07h00, it’s open for lunch and dinner
every day except Wednesday.
RN9
Les Plachis
T/F : + 33 4 70 42 09 58
Overlooking the Allier on the
Route Nationale just to the south of the village. This two roomed
restaurant serves traditional cuisine, Coq-au-Vin de Saint-Pourçain,
friture de l’Allier and cuisses de grenouilles.
Restaurant – L’Auberge
Gourmande
Le Bourg
Meillard
T : + 33 4 70 42 06 09
Auberge.gourmande@wanadoo.fr
A pretty looking maison
Bourbonnais next to the church in this quiet hamlet. There can’t be
much passing trade… Michelin lauded, but closed on Monday, Tuesday and
Wednesday. Annual closing is first two weeks of July and autumn and spring
half-term holidays. Best phone ahead to make sure they are open at all.
Chez Agnès
T : + 33 4 70 45 93 99
Agnès runs this rustic little
eatery serving Italian and regional dishes.
Sadly, Saint-Pourçain is no Sancerre or Saumur when
it comes to the local options for dining and sleeping. You will find the
short list of what is available listed below.
35
boulevard Ledru-Rollin
Saint-Pourçain
T: + 33 4 70 47 77 00
F: + 33 4 70 47 77 39
Hotel.chenevert@wanadoo.fr
www.hotel-restaurant-chene-vert.com
It’s
hard to believe this place on Saint-Pourçain’s busy main road once
enjoyed such high praise and, at one point in the 1970s, a Michelin star.
From first glance, it looks like a run down motel in any dead-end American
town; it certainly doesn’t exude confidence for the casual visitor to
wander in off the street. But the Chêne Vert is a long-standing
institution, being included in the Michelin Guide since at least the
1920s.
The hotel is closed in January and restaurant is not
open on Sundays except in summer. The dining room appears smart and offers
a good selection of local wines. I didn’t eat here during my visit to
the region in February 2010, but received mixed reports from the growers
themselves. I might find the courage to wander in and ask for a table the
next time I am in town…
43 Boulevard Ledru-Rollin
T: + 33 4 70 45 30 03
Valery.thiollier@orange.fr
This modest looking brasserie (where you can also
play the Loto and back a horse) is on the main road, close to the market
hall. I’ve heard conflicting reports on the food, but at least one vigneronne
told me it was her favourite restaurant in town (not that there’s too
much competition…).
T: + 33 4 70 45 31 08
This modest bistro which offers traditional cuisine
is to be found next to the bridge over the Sioule. Closed in April and
September.
41 rue Ledru-Rollin
T: + 33 4 70 45 30 10
A shop on the busy main road that is open seven days
a week selling a range of products manufactured in and around the
Valérie
et Pierre Cantal
6 rue du Tilleul
T: + 33 4 70 45 32 69
F: + 33 4 70 47 51 72
This typical village hostelry offers both a
traditional and gastronomic menu and is a popular hang-out for local
vineyard workers. The chef-proprietor comes with a good reputation, having
previously worked at the Chêne Vert in town. Open every lunch time except
Wednesday and for dinner on Friday and Saturday night.
T: + 33 4 70 45 99 40
Gaec.gallas@03.sideral.fr
www.domaine-gallas.com
Léone Gallas runs this self catering property from
the courtyard of the family wine business.
Maryse
and Michel Séchaud
5 rue de la République
T: + 33 4 70 56 62 12
www.val-de-sioule.com/poste
As the name suggests, the hotel is established in
the ancient post office close to the centre of this town. The restaurant
has a shaded terrace in summer and there are 12 rooms, although some have
limited facilities.
Claude
et Simone Maenner
3 rue de la Poulaillerie
Charroux
T/F: + 33 4 70 56 87 61
Huiles.moutardes@wanadoo.fr
www.huiles-et-moutardes.com
www.moutarde-charroux.com
Claude and Simone Maenner arrived in Charroux in
1992 and immediately set up their artisan operation. Today, their products
are seen on the best shelves around the region and their fame goes as far
as Roanne and the kitchen of Troisgros. Closer to home, Valérie Saignie
chef-proprietor of the Ferme Saint-Sébastien in the village utilizes it
in one of her specialities: macaroons. Mustards made with white wine
vinegar originate specifically from Tressallier produced in the Saint-Pourçain
appellation. Another, La Moutarde
Pourpre, makes use of the juice of Gamay grapes from the same source.
Charroux
T: + 33 4 70 56 88 71
P: + 33 6 77 25 19 79
laremisecharroux@orange.fr
www.laremisecharroux.com
This proper épicerie
is owned and run by gourmet and former Parisien pharmacist, Michel
Bougard. Expect to find a wide selection of local culinary and vinous
products in store.
Valérie
Saignie et Philippe Charvet
Chemin de Bourion
Charroux
T: + 33 4 70 56 88 83
F: + 33 4 70 56 86 66
www.la-ferme-saint-sebastien.com
Valérie Saignie was born in Cantal and attended
hotel school in La Chaise-Dieu in the Haute-Loire before working her
apprenticeship in some of
(Last dined 02/10)
Charroux
T/F : + 33 4 70 56 80 02
www.lagrangedubelvedere.com
She’s a solicitor he’s an architect From York.
Colleen and David Sharpe visited
Chambres d’Hôtes - de l’Ormet
Patricia
et Pierre Laederich
L’Ormet
Valignat
T: + 33 4 70 58 57 23
F: + 33 4 70 58 57 19
lormet@wanadoo.fr
www.chateaudeloremet.com
This four roomed
manoir is close to the southern reaches of the Saint-Pourçain
appellation and the gorges of the Sioule. The medieval
For
anyone wishing to explore the wine region of Saint-Pourçain, there is
very little beyond the draw of the wine cellars to attract the casual
visitor. However, within about thirty minutes drive, one can be in
111
boulevard des Etats-Unis
T: + 33 4 70 30 82 00
info@destinationvichy.com
www.destinationvichy.com
111 boulevard des Etats-Unis
T: + 33
4 70 30 82 28
The N3 is the new gourmet restaurant opened by chef
Pierre-Yves Lorgeoux after Michelin starred Jacques Decoret defected to
his own place in the centre of town in 2009.
Sofitel
Les Célestins
111 boulevard des Etats-Unis
T: + 33 4 70 30 82 27
The
Bistrot des Célestins is a classic Parisian-style café which offers
traditional cuisine. The food is served in generous helpings and the menu
is full of old favourites. The wine list is short but does offer wines
from the Saint-Pourçain cooperative and from François Ray. Recommended.
Not too expensive given its high profile location.
(Last dined 02/10)
Hotel-Restaurant
- Aletti Palace Hotel
3 place Joseph Aletti
T: + 33 4 70 30 20 20
F: + 33 4 70 98 13 82
contact@aletti.fr
www.hotel-aletti.fr
This attractive early 20th Century hotel is situated opposite the
casino and served as the headquarters of the War Ministry in Vichy France.
It's operated by Best Western, but don't let that put you off. It's a
little expensive, but the rooms are clean, modern and air-conditioned. It
serves as a good base for exploring the town. The restaurant with its
attractive high ceiling serves classic French cuisine, although there is
only a splattering of local dishes.
(Last stayed: 02/10)
Restaurant – Les
Caudalies
Emmanuel
et Lucie Basset
7-9 rue Besse
T: + 33 4 70 32 13 22
lescaudalies.vichy@orange.fr
This restaurant-brasserie was opened in 2009 by Manu
and Lucie Basset having returned from working for seven years at the
renowned Mirabelle restaurant in Hampshire’s
T: + 33 4 70 97 65 06
www.jacquesdecoret.com
Jacques Decoret, holder of the prestigious title of
Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) is also an ex-chef de Partie at Maison
Troisgros in Roanne. This one star Michelin recently relocated to a
refurbished Napoléon III chalet opposite the Parc des Sources in the
centre of the town. Guillaume is their young and enthusiastic sommelier.
Closed Tuesday and Wednesday and for three weeks in February and again
from mid August to early September. There are five well appointed, if
somewhat expensive, rooms.
3
boulevard de Russie
T/F: + 33 4 70 97 68 37
Set in one of the villas on a leafy boulevard, this
is the place to eat fish and seafood in
(Last dined 02/10)
Boulevard deLattre de Tassigny
T
: + 33 4.70.97.85.42
F : + 33 4.70.97.85.43
info@restaurantlarotonde-vichy.com
www.restaurantlarotonde-vichy.com
Operated by Bruno Cassard since 2009, there are
three separate opportunities to dine at this complex set within the
impressive surroundings of
T/F: + 33 4 70 32 85 15
www.michelangelo-s.fr
I don’t normally set out to eat Italian food when
I am in
The list is exclusively Italian with all the wines
being available for retail sale, which must be an interesting concept for
its essentially French clientele. Open Thursday, Friday and Saturday
evening and every lunchtime, except Wednesday. Inexpensive and
recommended.
(Last dined 02/10)
1 & 3 rue de Banville
Vichy
T: + 33 4 70 31 21 04
Modest, but very busy bistro specialising in the cuisine of the
Lyonnaise all served in ample portions. This is good, honest, simple food
bought to the table by friendly, chatty waiters. There are plenty of wines
by the glass, although you'll struggle to find anything local. Good value
and recommended. (Last dined: 06/09)
Restaurant - Le Bungalow
1 quai Allier
T: + 33 4 70 98 51 93
www.lebungalow.fr
This wooden chalet is sitated on the banks of the
(Last dined at the brasserie 02/10)
Hotel
- de la Plage
11 - 13 avenue Pierre Coulon
Vichy
T: + 33 4 70 98 18 48
F: + 33 4 70 97 72 63
hotel-de-la-plage5@wanadoo.fr
www.vichyevasion.com
Modern 45 room hotel that has a tie in with Le Bungalow restaurant,
above.
Hotel-Restaurant
– Les Nations
13 Boulevard de Russie
T: + 33 4 70 98 21 63
contact-lesnations@lesnations.com
www.lesnations.com
Situated in a leafy boulevard in the centre of
Retail
14 rue de l'Hôtel des Postes
Vichy
T: + 33 4 70 31 65 64
Patricia Gitenait runs this lovely cheese shop in the centre of the
town.
Meaulne
Catherine
Greninger
T : + 33 4 70 06 99 87
www.manoirdumortier.com
Situated three hours from Paris
and in the northern Bourbonnais, this 18th Century mansion is set in 50
hectares of parkland. The restaurant serves its own organically grown
vegetables and offers meat sourced locally as well as wines from the
region. It’s a sound base for visiting the forest of Tronçais. Expect
to pay upwards of € 125 for a double room.
For those heading north and
wishing to spend some time in the 10,000 hectare forest, these four places
all come recommended.
Restaurant – Auberge
du Rond-Gardien
Caroline et Jérôme Mazur
T : + 33 4 70 06 19 50
At the crossroads of two major
roads that traverse the forest. It’s a popular place with the local
hunting fraternity.
Hotel-Restaurant – Le
Tronçais
12 avenue Nicolas-Rambourg
T : + 33 4 70 06 11 95
This 18th Century lodge is
situated in parkland and on the banks of a small lake. It is relatively
inexpensive at between € 48 and € 75 a night for a room.
Hotel-Restaurant – Chez
Chaumat
Nicole et Gilles Friaud
Place Péron
T : + 33 4 70 67 52 21
This inexpensive eight roomed
lodge provides a base for exploring the region. The restaurant makes a
point of serving local and seasonal ingredients.
C.U.V.E.
20 route de Varennes
Saint-Pourçain-sur-Sioule
T : + 33 4 70 45 62 97
Sells mainly bag-in-box and
local wines in bottle solely from the co-operative. There is a limited
selection of wines from elsewhere in France.
8 bis, rue Wilson
Vichy
T : + 33 4 70 98 24 75
www.hediard.fr
23 rue Lucas et Marché Couvert
Vichy
T : + 33 4 70 96 17 41
13 place de l’hôtel-de-Ville
Vichy
T : + 33 4 70 98 18 20