Rochais, Château de Plaisance (1988)
took a full fifteen years for any other grower to follow Jean Baumard’s
lead and cross the river to invest in Savennières. Henri and Guy Rochais
first bought land here in 1983, although their first release was five
years later. The Rochais family have been established in Chaume for over
300 years and have a significant 1.5 hectare holding in the Quarts de
Chaume. Their vineyards in Chaume and the Quarts de Chaume were certified organic from the 2008 vintage.
Rochais makes two cuvées of Savennières from his two different parcels.
‘Le Clos’ comes from Le Clos de Maurièrs and is fermented and aged
for between 12 and 18 months in second hand barrels acquired from Château
Haut Brion, whilst his generic Savennières comes from the younger vines
in Le Gabillard and is raised in tank.
on these two 2005s tasted below, Rochais, a small, rotund man, strongly
vocal and opinionated, is well worth following. His 2007 ‘Le Clos’ in
barrel was very impressive. However, disgusted with the quality of his
generic cuvée this vintage, he’d already disposed of it to the négoce
by the end of the year.
Slightly high-toned and cresmy on the nose. Broad and rich, but also quite
simple and ordinary. Not very expressive at this stage in its development.
Unknit and closed up. (02/11)
A little flat and showing some premature oxidation on the nose. More
typical on the palate, although the wood shows through and is a little too
dominant and unknit. Flat and lacks acidity and freshness, with some
crunchy acidity to the finish. Undistinguished. (02/10)
dry, firmer and austere style with a greener expression to both nose and
palate. Instantly approachable, but with a sense that this can age
further. Authentic and honest. (02/08)
depth. The wood shows a little on the nose at present, but with good
mineral definition behind. Firm and austere with good citrus zip to the
finish. The oak is evident but doesn’t dominate. Positive bitter Chenin
twist to the finish. This shows potential to develop with time. (02/08)
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