Claude
and Joëlle Papin, Château Pierre-Bise (1992)
Château
Pierre-Bise, meaning ‘stone and wind’, sits towering above its own
hamlet on a high ridge above the Layon. The property, which dates back to
the 16th century, was purchased in 1959 by Pierre Papin, the
son of a boulanger. With it came nine hectares of vines, situated around the village
of
Wine
Overview:
Claude
Papin now produces three different expressions of Savennières: one each
from of the various sites they work, plus a single Anjou Villages produced
from the five hectares of Cabernet Franc at Clos de Coulaine. The white
wines are raised in a combination of stainless steel, subterranean tanks
and 400 litre barrels. Only indigenous yeasts are used, and the malolactic
is dependent on the conditions of the vintage. Bottling takes place at the
end of the following year. The Anjou Villages is raised in tank.
The
Wines:
The
Papins remain one of the reference points within the order of Layon
growers, and can justifiably be considered as one of the leading producers
in Savennières too. Claude Papin has a deep understanding of the three
sites he works here, with each of the resulting wines displaying the
characteristics one would expect based on their individual and very
different terroirs. The wines are clean and modern but have a wide
drinking window which ensures they are accessible in their youth yet
capable of gaining complexity as they age, a trait that should define any
fine wine.
2008
Clos de Grand Beaupréau
Barrel fermented and aged, with malo-lactic happening this vintage.
25hl/ha. Very clean nose and palate. Restrained with a saline edge.
Delicate and complex. Understated and very much in the Papin style. Gentle
but persistent finish. Already soft and approachable, but has the
potential to evolve over a few more years. (02/10)
2006
Clos de Coulaine
Mid
depth yellow/gold. Broad but quiet nose with a rich, faintly oxidative
style. Delicate and restrained on entry. Well textured with good structure
and length. Retains very good minerality alongside a peach and apricot
flavour profile. The alcohol just shows a little. This is approachable now
but should age and evolve further. (02/08)
2006
Clos de Grand Beaupréau
Mid
depth straw appearance. Delicate and shy nose that needs some time. The
palate is more expressive with a delicate mineral and peach profile. Well
textured. This is a very delicate style, but shows its quality with more
minerality than found in the Clos de Coulaine. Still youthful and in need
of more time in bottle. (02/08)
2006
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
Bright.
Pale yellow/straw. Shy on the nose with a hint of honey behind. Very
delicate, but one can see Papin’s style emerging within this vintage.
Very good minerality with greater intensity and power. You can almost
crunch on the acidity. Very fine, elegant and refined. This is still in
its infancy and demands respect in terms of its potential for future
development. (02/08)
2005
Savennières – Roche aux Moines
Bright.
Deep-straw. Richly textured and modern style nose. Peaty, with the oak
showing a little too much at this stage. Very ripe, open and attractive on
the palate. Very soft on entry, it builds well, although the alcohol and
ripeness show. Though there is a distinct impression of the residual sugar
here. Otherwise good weight and balance, however, it is slightly
overwhelming to the finish. It is open and attractive now, but would
benefit with keeping a few more years for the wine to integrate. (02/08)
2005
Savennières - Clos le Grand Beaupréau
Pale straw appearance. No sign of evolution here. There is a tight,
stony, sinewy nose to this that gives little away, but it’s all there
behind, just waiting to grow into itself. This is incredibly complex, but
the taster needs to search hard and exhibit patience. There are white
flowers, apples, acacia, honey and even a fleck of aniseed here, but
it’s the minerality that dominates. The palate is more open and
expressive, indicating better what is still to come. The wine is delicate,
but also powerful and expressive with great texture and freshness. There
is the typical pithy Savennières bite on the finish; a bitter twist.
Excellent balance and restraint. Probably the quintessential example of a
modern Savennières. This is approachable now, and quite delicious, but it
deserves to be kept and allowed to age further. 13.5%
2003
Clos de Coulaine ‘La Pierre de Coulaine’ Doux
There
was very little sec produced
here this vintage. Bright. Deep yellow/gold. Very attractive apricot
confit nose. This is more Layon than Savennières in style. Delicate,
fresh and lively. Rich on entry with excellent weight and texture. Sweet
(140 g/l residual sugar) but with lovely balance and real elegance. Very
refined. There is a touch of Alsatian Pinot Gris about this with an
attractive meaty, foie-gras like flavour profile. Oily textured and a
persistent finish. Lovely. Delicious now, but will age and evolve further.
About 1,000 (50cl) bottles produced. (02/08)
2001
Clos de Coulaine
Bright.
Mid-full yellow/straw. Mature, waxy/oily nose. This is in a second phase
of its evolution. Typical and quite old fashioned in style. White flowers
and truffles. Still lively on the palate. Well textured with some of the
oiliness of the nose and some terpine hints. Persistent finish with more
flavours of white flowers. This is mature but not tired. Drinking well now
and unlikely to improve further. It should hold a few more years. (02/08)
2000
Clos de Coulaine
Bright.
Mid-full yellow/gold. Very open and attractive nose. Old fashioned and
quite mature. Some terpine aromas developing. Complex with truffles and
white flowers. Mature. Rich on entry with a lovely creamy texture. Still
extremely delicate with excellent weight and balance. Very gentle and
refined. Good length. This should age further as the acidity is still very
fresh, but is à point and
completely harmonious now. (04/09)
1999
Clos de Coulaine
Very
pale straw/yellow. Delicate and refined on the nose. Clean and still
fresh. Proper Chenin. Gentle and elegant on the palate with a hint of
residual sugar and a creamy texture and a faintly chalky finish. Good
length. Understated and honest. This is drinking well now, but will
continue to age for a few more years. (04/08)
2005
Clos de Coulaine, Anjou Villages
Very
deep and youthful appearance. Purple rim. Rich, ripe and concentrated nose
but still true to its origin. Bright red and black fruit on entry. Taut
and mineral with very good grip. Austere, but with good flesh. Pure, with
racy acidity. The tannins are still quite grippy and it will need some
time to soften and evolve, but this shows great potential. (02/08)
2004
Clos de Coulaine, Anjou Villages
Bright,
mid-full youthful red. This is honest and authentic. Mineral, stony and
with good Cabernet Franc purity and flesh on the nose. Black and red
fruits show on the palate, with very good structure and weight. Initially
taut and tannic, but this softens with time in the glass. Good length.
Ideally needs more time, but is approachable now. It shows a sense of
place. (02/08)
1999
Clos de Coulaine, Anjou Villages
Some evolution in appearance. Lovely pure Cabernet Franc nose. Initially
herbal, it opens up well. Bloody on both nose and palate, there are black
fruits and a mineral edge. Delicate and slate-like flavours. Light but
proper. This is drinking now, but will hold further. (01/08)
1998
Clos de Coulaine, Anjou Villages
Claude
Papin
Chateau
de Pierre Bise
Beaulieu-sur-Layon
T:
+33 2 41 78 31 44
F:
+33 2 41 78 41 24
chateaupb@hotmail.com