Guy Saget, Château de la Mulonnière (2003)
Saget dynasty arrived in the Beaulieu-sur-Layon in 2003, buying the Château
de la Mulonnière from the financially troubled Marchal-Grossat. In
addition to the 39 hectares already in production here, Saget accepted an
approach by Emile Benon to buy the four hectares of Le Grande Hamé
vineyard on the plateau of Savennières. Given Saget’s other commitments
Loire, the domaine here is under the day to day control of François Robin,
with Benoit Dufour (who arrived here from Château Belle-Rive in the
Quarts-de-Chaume) as mâitre de chai.
2003 the wines have been raised partly in tank, but also allowed a sojourn
in barrique. In general, there is an 18 month cuvaison
and bottling appears to be done on demand rather than to an annual
schedule. The 2006 tasted from tank had just spent its second winter in
stainless steel. The malolactic fermentation is mostly avoided. Annual
production is around 2,000 cases.
is about as close as one gets to finding ‘negociant’ Savennières. The
impression is that their existence is to simply fill a gap within a range.
These are competent wines, but not particularly distinguished.
appearance. Rich, modern style, but also shows some traditional
characteristics too. Quite oxidative, but with good minerality and a taut
structure. There is an authentic bitter twist to the finish. Should be
good for five years after release, maybe more. (02/08)
deep appearance. Yellow. Quite advanced already on the nose showing signs
of early maturity. On the palate, it is floral, showing white flowers,
again suggesting maturity. An authentic old fashioned style with some
minerality showing to the finish. This is drinking now, however I question
its ability to age and evolve further. (02/08)
Yellow/gold. Mid depth and clean on the nose, but quiet and a bit closed.
Light, delicate entry. Quite straight and linear, but also pretty simple
and one dimensional. Well balanced, but not very exciting. Short on the
Robin / Benoit Dufour
de la Mulonnieres
+33 2 41 78 47 52
+33 2 41 78 63 63
to the list of Savennières producers