SA
Guy Saget, Château de la Mulonnière (2003)
The
Saget dynasty arrived in the Beaulieu-sur-Layon in 2003, buying the Château
de la Mulonnière from the financially troubled Marchal-Grossat. In
addition to the 39 hectares already in production here, Saget accepted an
approach by Emile Benon to buy the four hectares of Le Grande Hamé
vineyard on the plateau of Savennières. Given Saget’s other commitments
throughout the
Loire, the domaine here is under the day to day control of François Robin,
with Benoit Dufour (who arrived here from Château Belle-Rive in the
Quarts-de-Chaume) as mâitre de chai.
Wine
Overview:
Since
2003 the wines have been raised partly in tank, but also allowed a sojourn
in barrique. In general, there is an 18 month cuvaison
and bottling appears to be done on demand rather than to an annual
schedule. The 2006 tasted from tank had just spent its second winter in
stainless steel. The malolactic fermentation is mostly avoided. Annual
production is around 2,000 cases.
The
Wines:
This
is about as close as one gets to finding ‘negociant’ Savennières. The
impression is that their existence is to simply fill a gap within a range.
These are competent wines, but not particularly distinguished.
2006
Savennières
Deep
appearance. Rich, modern style, but also shows some traditional
characteristics too. Quite oxidative, but with good minerality and a taut
structure. There is an authentic bitter twist to the finish. Should be
good for five years after release, maybe more. (02/08)
2005
Savennières
Polished,
deep appearance. Yellow. Quite advanced already on the nose showing signs
of early maturity. On the palate, it is floral, showing white flowers,
again suggesting maturity. An authentic old fashioned style with some
minerality showing to the finish. This is drinking now, however I question
its ability to age and evolve further. (02/08)
2004
Savennières
Polished.
Yellow/gold. Mid depth and clean on the nose, but quiet and a bit closed.
Light, delicate entry. Quite straight and linear, but also pretty simple
and one dimensional. Well balanced, but not very exciting. Short on the
finish. (02/08)
Francois
Robin / Benoit Dufour
Chateau
de la Mulonnieres
Beaulieu-sur-Layon
T:
+33 2 41 78 47 52
F:
+33 2 41 78 63 63
francoisrobin1@voila.fr
www.guysaget.com
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