SA Guy Saget, Château de la Mulonnière (2003)  

The Saget dynasty arrived in the Beaulieu-sur-Layon in 2003, buying the Château de la Mulonnière from the financially troubled Marchal-Grossat. In addition to the 39 hectares already in production here, Saget accepted an approach by Emile Benon to buy the four hectares of Le Grande Hamé vineyard on the plateau of Savennières. Given Saget’s other commitments throughout the Loire, the domaine here is under the day to day control of François Robin, with Benoit Dufour (who arrived here from Château Belle-Rive in the Quarts-de-Chaume) as mâitre de chai.

Wine Overview:  
Since 2003 the wines have been raised partly in tank, but also allowed a sojourn in barrique. In general, there is an 18 month cuvaison and bottling appears to be done on demand rather than to an annual schedule. The 2006 tasted from tank had just spent its second winter in stainless steel. The malolactic fermentation is mostly avoided. Annual production is around 2,000 cases.

The Wines:  
This is about as close as one gets to finding ‘negociant’ Savennières. The impression is that their existence is to simply fill a gap within a range. These are competent wines, but not particularly distinguished.

2006 Savennières  
Deep appearance. Rich, modern style, but also shows some traditional characteristics too. Quite oxidative, but with good minerality and a taut structure. There is an authentic bitter twist to the finish. Should be good for five years after release, maybe more. (02/08)

2005 Savennières  
Polished, deep appearance. Yellow. Quite advanced already on the nose showing signs of early maturity. On the palate, it is floral, showing white flowers, again suggesting maturity. An authentic old fashioned style with some minerality showing to the finish. This is drinking now, however I question its ability to age and evolve further. (02/08)

2004 Savennières  
Polished. Yellow/gold. Mid depth and clean on the nose, but quiet and a bit closed. Light, delicate entry. Quite straight and linear, but also pretty simple and one dimensional. Well balanced, but not very exciting. Short on the finish. (02/08)

Francois Robin / Benoit Dufour  
Chateau de la Mulonnieres  
Beaulieu-sur-Layon  
T: +33 2 41 78 47 52  
F: +33 2 41 78 63 63  

francoisrobin1@voila.fr

www.guysaget.com

 

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