Loïc Mahe, Domaine du Gué d’Orger (2005)  

A first-generation vigneron, 43 year old Loïc Mahe was born in Brittany. He studied agriculture in Angers and worked as an agricultural advisor before getting into wine in 2001. He worked his apprenticeship with Damien Laureau in Frémur before starting up his own domaine in the same cellar after Laureau vacated it early in 2007. In addition to renting vines from the 2005 vintage in Les Fougeraies and Le Gabillard, he has also been producing Anjou Villages-Brissac and Coteaux de l’Aubance from vines rented in Mozé-sur-Louet since 2001.

Wines Overview:  
From his two parcels in Savennières, he plans to make two cuvées; ‘Les Fougeraies’ which comes from a part of the vineyard known locally as Le Parc, and ‘Equilibre’ based on fruit from Le Gabillard. In 2005, he actually made three wines, including one experimental cuvée of 1,100 bottles called ‘Sectilus Terra’. In 2006, both sites were blended to make a single release. All the wines pass through older barrels as well as spending time in epoxy tanks.

The Wines:  
Mahe is a producer to watch. Fortunate enough to start with a gift of a vintage in 2005, the wines produced from the subsequent difficult year are equally impressive. The experimental ‘Selectus Terra’ 2005 deserves to be in any serious Chenin lover’s cellar.  

2009 'Les Fougeraies'
Proper, restrained nose. Still quite primary. Good balance, weight and concentration. Honest and authentic, taut and linear. Approachable now but could benefit with more time in bottle. Approachable with very good freshness to the finish. (02/11)

2005 ‘L’Equilibre’
From vines planted on schist soils in 2000. Only 11hl/ha and aged for 11 months in barrel. Deep appearance. Deep and proper on the nose with a good thread of minerality. Still a little closed, but serious and shows intent. Floral and faintly oxidative with notes of quince. Solid and concentrated on entry, it has a saline edge and a very good sense of schist-like minerality running through the wine. This is just approachable, but will develop and improve further. Very good. 1,900 bottles produced. (02/10)

2005 ‘Les Fougeraies’  
Ten months in oak. Pale. Yellow/straw. Ripe on the nose and shows a little wood. The palate is much more linear and restrained. Great minerality and acid balance. Taut. Chalky textured with a white flower flavour. The finish is a little hot. Ideally, this needs time to evolve although is approachable now. (02/08)

2005 ‘L’Equilibre’  
Tasted from tank, this spent 24 months in barrel. Part malolactic. Bottled February 2008. Mid depth. Straw/yellow. Mineral nose. Taut. Very fresh with linear acidity on the palate. Attractive with some honeyed notes. The wood currently shows a little. Very good mineral character with some citrus.  The acidity carries the finish. This should be good for a decade or more. (02/08)

2005 ‘Selectus Terra’  
Comes from the first picking of healthy berries from ‘Le Gabillard’. Deep appearance. Gold/yellow. Rich, very ripe, soft and confit nose. An oxidative style. Concentrated, powerful with a squeaky, chalky texture. Very fresh lemon-like acidity. Intense with excellent balance. More oxidative hints to the palate. Very youthful and demanding time. This shows excellent potential. Bottled April 2007. Only 1,100 bottles produced. (02/08)

Loic Mahe  
Domaine Gue d'Orger  
La Piquellerie  
Ste Gemmes sur Loire  
T: +33 6 14 76 66 01  
F: +33 2 41 48 01 63  

gue.dorger@wanadoo.fr

 

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