Claude
and Stéphane Branchereau, Domaine des Forges (1994)
The arbre
généalogique shows that five generations of the family have worked
vines in St Aubin de Luigné, commencing with a two hectare purchase in
‘Le Clos des Forges’ in 1890. Today Branchereau, father and son, farm
a total of 42 hectares of vines, including just under one hectare in the
Quarts de Chaume. Stéphane joined his father in 1996, after obtaining a
degree in Viti-Oeno and working stages
in both
Wine
Overview:
Since
2004 the Branchereaus have released three separate wines from each of the
sites that they work. All are fermented and raised in 450 litre barrels of
which around 20% are new. The wines are batonnaged for around three
months, and whilst malolactic is not systematic, it often occurs. Bottling
takes place just prior to the following vintage.
The
Wines:
The
Branchereaus come with a fairly solid reputation for their Layon wines,
however I don’t believe they have yet learnt to tame the challenging
environment of Savennières. The wines here are big, fat and most
noticeably, alcoholic. All the wines tasted in here in February 2008 are
broaching 15% and it shows, with the wines lacking finesse and charm.
There is too much emphasis on ripeness and the use of oak and malolactic
to the detriment of acidity and freshness.
2009
Roche aux Moines
Rich, ripe nose, but clumsy with obvious grainy oak to the palate. This
lacks any sense of place but remains typical of the house style. Unknit
and ordinary. (02/11)
2008
Roche aux Moines
Fermentation, malolactic and ageing in oak for 11 months. Clean, open and
attractive but heavily marked by the wood which only serves to mask the
character of the wine and the appellation. Soft and creamy on the nose.
Palate expresses its origin better. Clean and fresh with good balancing
acidity. The oak still dominates the back of the palate. Hopefully, this
will integrate over time. Open and expressive and certainly approachable
now. This is a distinctly commercial style but compromises the character
of the appellation. (02/10)
2006
Moulin de Gué
2006
Roche aux Moines
Bright.
Mid-depth straw. Clean nose and still quite primary. A little closed. Very
good minerality to the palate, with flavours of honey. The wine has a
lactic edge with a concentrated, intense, almost Viognier-like weight and
texture. Again, the (15%) alcohol shows to the finish. Approachable now.
(02/08)
2005
Moulin de Gué
Polished.
Quite deep yellow/gold appearance. Rich, concentrated nose. A bit
resinous, with the wood protruding at this stage. Rich, concentrated and
silky textured palate with flavours of toasted cereals. Rounded with a
creamy, lactic edge. Good acidity. The alcohol shows a little on the
finish along with a hint of bitterness. A touch phenolic and falls a
little short. Approachable now. (02/08)
2005
Roche aux Moines
Polished.
Mid-full yellow/straw. Closed nose, but quality shows behind. Broad on
entry. Rich and concentrated with a good stony, mineral edge. Builds well,
but becomes hot, lactic and alcoholic to the finish with some bitterness.
This is clumsy and lacking balance. A disappointment for the vintage. 15%
alcohol. (02/08)
2004
Roche aux Moines
Bright.
Mid-full straw/yellow. Clean and light on the nose and not very
expressive. Good stony profile which thankfully shows above both the (15%)
alcohol and the wood. More restrained and balanced overall. Drinking now,
but should age and evolve further. (02/08)
2004
Clos du Papillon
Polished.
Mid-depth straw appearance. Rich on the nose. Rounded and fat with
flavours of the (100%) malolactic ferment showing. Otherwise the nose is
quite muted. Mineral on entry with a good stony character. Mid-full with
good structure. Rounded and quite fat on the palate. Big finish. This
falls a bit short and lacks some fresh acidity. Drink now. (02/08)
2003
Moulin de Gué
Polished.
Deep yellow/gold. Broad and mature with some coconut. The nose is a bit
muted. Broad and oatmealy on the palate and exhibits all the characters of
the vintage. It shows ripeness and is quite fat and clumsy with a hot and
alcoholic (15%) finish. There are some advanced ageing characters too with
a hint of oxidation. Powerful and mineral to the finish, but this is
unlikely to age further. Drink now. (02/08)
1996
Clos de Maurièrs
Stephane
Branchereau
St
Aubin-de-Luigne
T:
+33 2 41 78 33 56
F:
+33 2 41 78 67 51
cb@domainedesforges.net
www.domainedesforges.net