Wining,
Dining and Sleeping in the Loire
Worth
a detour…
I’ve
listed these hotels and restaurants on the basis that they are serious
about their wine lists and the selection of
Loire
wines that they carry. In theory, they are en-route to the region if one
is departing from the south of England.
Paris
Restaurant
– Au Petit
Riche
25
Rue Le Peletier
T: +33 1
47 70 68 68
F: +33
1 48 24
10 79
www.restaurant-aupetitriche.com
An obligatory destination for any Loireophiles who find themselves in
the city. Situated off Boulevard Haussmann, this classic bistrot is a
voyage back to Paris during the Belle Époque. It was founded in
1854 as the Café Riche and rebuilt in 1880 after being destroyed by fire
and decorated using intricate mosaics and finely engraved glass. It became
a favourite haunt for coachmen and the stagehands and actors of Opera
close by.
Its
Loire influence is a direct result of Monsieur Bernard who took ownership
of the property in 1880. He was a
native of Vouvray and wanted to impress the regions personality by way of
its menu and list of wines. Little has changed in the past 130-odd years
and it remains a busy restaurant which attracts local patrons and tourists
alike.
On
the menu you can expect to find the likes of Gillardeau oysters, lentils
from the Berry, joue de boeuf braised in Bourgueil and rillons
sourced directly from Hardouin in Vouvray. The wine list similarly has a
strong Loire influence with all the great names acknowledged and current
releases mingle with some of the great vintages of the past. Drink Huet
Vouvray (although at a cost) back to the early 1920s... Otherwise wine
prices are perfectly fare.
This
is good, honest traditional food served by a friendly and efficient
brigade of waiters. Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. Modestly
priced and highly recommended. (Last Dined 01/11).
Calais
Restaurant
– Le Channel
3
boulevard Résistance
Calais
T: +33 3 21 34 42 30
F: +33 3 21 97 42 43
contact@restaurant-lechannel.com
www.restaurant-lechannel.com
A very modest looking restaurant from the exterior, but as one crosses
the threshold, the vinous pleasures to come are displayed under the
glassed over cellar, below. This is a very serious wine list, entrusted to
young Arnaud Crespo whose family have operated Le Channel for over thirty
years. Arnaud’s passion is for
Alsace
, which is strongly represented in the list. Having worked a stage with Trimbach, he has is a particular following for the
Riesling Clos Ste Hune, with vintages well back into the 1980s. The
Loire
list is equally rich and tempting, with Chinon from Couly-Durtheil back to
the 1970s – and all at exceptionally reasonable prices. The menu is
dominated, as one would expect, by the freshest fish and seafood
imaginable. Le Channel is a great way to either start of finish a sortie
into France. It’s even worth a detour in its own right. (Last
time dined: 02/10)
Caen
Restaurant
– Le
Bouchon
du Vaugueux
12
Rue Graindorge
Caen
T: +33
2 31 44
26 26
Partners Emmanuel Maintenant and Corinne Poussier took over this
existing business (which already enjoyed a 'bib' rating in the Guide
Michelin) in early 2011. It's a modest and busy bistrot serving excellent
traditional and seasonal food from an ever-changing menu which is chalked
up on large blackboards. The wine selection is similarly presented and
rotates to include a broad choice of wines by the glass - all of which are
sourced from proper, small producers. The Loire is well represented; we
drank Reuilly Pinot Gris from Valérie Renaudat and Côte Roannaise from
the family Sérol, all served with a smile. Very highly recommended for
those looking to pass through Caen on their way to or from the Brittany
Ferries service to Portsmouth. Booking recommended. (Last dined:
06/11)
Chartres
Hotel-Restaurant
– Le Grand Monarque
22
place Épars
Chartres
T:
+33 2 37 18 15 15
F: +33 2 37 36 34 18
info@bw-grand-monarque.com
www.bw-grand-monarque.com
I wouldn’t normally condone staying in a Best Western hotel,
but this is different: Le Grand Monarque has been listed in the Guide
Michelin since the very first edition in 1900. It has a spectacular wine
list and given its close proximity to the
Loire
, this is its strongest suit. There are great old curiosities here for
next to nothing prices (I have recently drunk an excellent 1989 Coteaux
d'Ancenis Malvoisie for € 19.00 and a 1981 Gigou Jasnières for the same price).
There are two dining options; a ‘gastronomic’ restaurant
serving modern-classic French cuisine, which won a Michelin star in 2010, or a more informal brasserie, Le
Madrigal, serving excellent Gillardeau oysters and
steak-frites. I’d recommend checking in for two nights and dine in
each. Be sure to ask for a cellar tour after dinner. The rooms which have
recently been updated with toile de Jouy themed fabric in the old French style are large and
well appointed and not overly expensive.
(Last time dined: 05/10)
Hotel
– Mercure
03
rue de Général Koënig
Chartres
T:
+33 2 37 33
11 11
F: +33 2 37 33
12 12
h7386@accor.com
For those unable to get a room at the Grand Monarque, or want a
less expensive option, Mercure have recently opened a basic, but clean and
state of the art hotel just around the corner - and just a few seconds
staggering distance away from one of the best wine lists in France. (Last
time stayed: 05/10)
Troyes
Restaurant
– Au Jardin Gourmand
31 Rue Paillot de Montabert
Troyes
T: + 33 3 25 73 36 13
Troyes
is a lovely town full of
half timbered houses and is a good base for touring the vineyards of the
Aube, the prettier southern half of the
Champagne
region. It is feasible to be able to reach Troyes within about four hours
of arriving in Calais and, as a result is equally useful as a stop off
point when travelling to and from the south as it also happens to be
situated on the cross roads of two major autoroutes.
The local delicacy here is andouillettes,
essentially a chitterling sausage full of tubes and wiggly bits best not
discussed on a site like this. It’s a dish for the most dedicated of
gastronome. A visit to Troyes
would be incomplete without dining chez Jacques Lebois at Au Jardin
Gourmand. You can experience the particularly ‘organic’ smelling AAAAA Andouillettes aux Chablis here, but thankfully the repertoire
of Mme Lebois extends beyond this. Expect a small but well chosen carte
here with a sprinkling of
Loire
wines (my excuse for including it here), but this is one of my very
favourite places to dine.
(Last time dined: 12/09)
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