Wining,
Dining and Sleeping in the Loire
Romorantin-Lanthenay
Hotel-Restaurant
- Grand Hotel du Lion d’Or
69 rue Clemenceau
T: +33 2 54 94 15 15
F: +33 2 54 88 24 87
liondor@relaischateaux.com
Although some distance from
any specific wine region, this is a useful stop off point between the
Restaurant
with rooms – Lathenay
9
rue Notre Dame du Lieu
Lathenay
T: +33 2 54 76 09 19
F: +33 2 54 76 72 91
Situated
in a quiet hamlet on the northern edge of the town. The rooms are
motel-style and very basic and in need of attention. The restaurant is run
by a bossy madame and (presumably) her children, and the menu based on
local specialities. The food is quite rustic, but perfectly decent. There
is a modest list with some well known if predictable
Saint-Aignan
Hotel
- Restaurant – Grand
Hotel
7-9
quai J-J Delorme
T: +33 2 54 75 18 04
F: +33 2 54 75 12 59
Grand.hotel.st.aignan@wanadoo.fr
A
dominant ivy clad building on the south bank of the river
Hotel-Restaurant
– Le
Bellevue
24
quai de la Republique
Well
situated for touring the appellations of the western
Hotel-Restaurant – Château
de la Menaudière
Route
d’Amboise
T: +33 1 69 47 00 65
This
country manor is situated about 10 minutes north of Montrichard on the
road to
(Last stayed and dined: 07/06)
Chambres
d’Hôte – Le
Prieuré de la Chaise
T:
+ 33 2 54 32 59 77
F: + 33 2 54 32 69 49
prieuredelachaise@yahoo.fr
www.prieuredelachaise.com
A
16th Century priory with its own chapel situated close to
Chenenceau and comes with its own vineyard, although the wines are made
elsewhere. There are three rooms here and one suite and is okay for an
overnight stop. The Prieuré is
owned by friendly Danièle Duret-Therizols and her silent and rather
grumpy husband, who swans around in his dressing gown smoking Marlborough
Reds doing his Bryan Ferry circa in 1974 impression. I was half expected
to hear ‘Smoke Gets in Your Eyes’ at breakfast, but we got Gregorian
Chants instead. (Last
time stayed: 12/08)
Restaurant
– Auberge
du Cheval Rouge
30
Rue Nationale
Chisseaux
T:
+ 33 2 47 23 86 67
www.auberge-duchevalrouge.com
You
will find this roadside auberge situated on the north bank of the
Restaurant
– L’Epicerie
46
place M. Debré
Amboise
T:
+33 2 47 57 08 94
You
will find this small, but charming restaurant situated in an old wooden
framed house on the road that leads up the side of the chateau. The menu
is based on regional dishes and changes to reflect the seasons. The wine
list is small, but with some good local producers from both Montlouis and
Vouvray represented.
Chambres d’Hote – Domaine
des Bidaudières
Rue
de Peu Morier
Vouvray
T: +33 2 47 52 66 85
F: +33 2 47 52 62 17
resa@bidaudieres.com
www.bidaudieres.com
Situated
five minutes east of Vouvray towards Vernou and at the very foot of the
vineyard slopes, this is a formal semi-troglodyte 18th century
manor house. It was once a wine
estate in its own right. The rooms are large and well fitted. This is my
chosen residence for my visits to Vouvray. No credit cards are accepted,
so be sure to take plenty of cash. (Last
stayed: 08/09)
Chambre d'Hote - Domaine
Vincent Carême
Vincent et Tania Carême
1 rue du Haut Clos
Vernou-sur-Brenne
T: +33 (0)2 47 52 71 28
F:+33 (0)2 47 52 01 36
www.homelidays.com/vernou-sur-brenne/country-cottage-gite246895en1.htm
Stay with Vincent Careme and Tania, his South African wife. I've
yet to take advantage of their hospitality, but Tania tells me if you
phone up to book and mention my name, you get to stay for free. (Only
kidding, Tania...)
Chambre d'Hote - La
Closeraie
6 Rue de Commerce
Vouvray
T: + 33 9 54 52 77 48
corinne@lacloseraie.com
This place came recommended to me by Sean O'Neill who stayed over
en-route to the south-west. It's run by Corinne Berthier. Sean wrote: 'A
charming and very typical French welcome and very nice rooms, including
breakfast in a room hollowed into the rock beneath Le Clos du Bourg. This
is less than five minutes walk from Domaine Huet'.
Chambre d'Hote - Le Moulin de Bacchus
Chancay
T: + 33 2 47 52 27 90
www.likhom.com
The watermill on the banks of the river Brenne has five rooms. There
is also an indoor heated pool. Contact Didier and Françoise Surin.
Hotel-Restaurant
– Les
Hautes Roches
86
quai
Rochecorbon
T: +33 2 47 52 88 88
F: +33 2 47 52 81 30
Hautes.roches@wanadoo.fr
If
you ever wanted to know what it was like to be a troglodyte, this is the
place to stay. Some of the rooms in this 18th century
ex-monastery are cut directly into the honey coloured tufa. The restaurant
is a one star Michelin. An expensive treat. (Last stayed: 06/03)
Hotel-Restaurant –
Le
Grand Vatel
8
avenue Léon Brulé
Vouvray
T: +33 2 47 52 70 32
F: +33 2 47 52 74 52
legrandvatel@orange.fr
Le
Grand Vatel offers a large dining room serving good quality regional
cuisine with an emphasis on local and seasonal ingredients. The wine list
is excellent with a treasure trove of old Vouvray. There are a few rooms
upstairs, although I’ve never stayed.
Restaurant
– Le Virage
Gastronomique ‘les Chalans’
Avenue
Léon Brulé
Vouvray
T: +33 2 47 52 70 02
You’ll
find this next to the traffic lights in the centre of town. This is a good
stop for a quick, light lunch with the possibility of eating on the small
summer terrace.
Restaurant
– La Cave
Martin
La
Vallée Coquette
Vouvray
T: +33 2 47 52 62 18
F: +33 2 47 52 79 34
La
Cave Martin is a troglodyte restaurant situated in one of the valleys that
runs perpendicular to the river. This a popular haunt for locals and needs
to be booked in advance. The food is traditional; try the Assiette de Terroir, and the wine list is small but has some
interesting older vintages of Vouvray. There is a terrace for summer
dining.
18 Route Nationale
Vouvray
T: + 33 2 47 52 70 18
info@valjoli.com
www.valjoli.com
This restaurant opened opposite to Hardoin (see below) a couple of
years ago and offers a menu of regional cuisine. It's relatively
inexpensive, although I have yet to dine here. Closed Sunday and Tuesday
evenings and all day Wednesday.
Restaurant
– La
Lanterne
Quai
de la Loire 48
Rochecorbon
T: +33 2 47 52 50 02
F: +33 2 47 52 54 46
Situated
along the main road beside the river, this is a troglodyte restaurant,
taking its name from the lantern that stands on the slope immediately
above. The food here is traditional and of a good standard, but the wine
list alone makes it worth a visit, with some ancient bottles from local
cellars available at reasonable prices.
Retail
Vouvray
T: +33 2 47 52 60 24
Probably
the best charcuterie in the
Tours
Hotel - Hôtel l'Adresse
12 rue de la Rotisserie
T: + 33 2 47 20 85 76
contactladresse@aol.com
www.hotel-ladresse.com
Located on a pedestrian alley in the heart of the old town, close to the
covered market, this small, 17 roomed boutique hotel has become one of the
trendy addresses in town. Personally, I found it a bit grubby, with a
pretension to be something it is not. In the old days, this former
townhouse would have been referred to as a bed and breakfast. It's
sufficient for a single night stay, but don't use this as a base for a
trip in the region. The rooms are small, dark and boxy with minimal
décor. Moderately priced. (Last stayed: 01/10).
Hotel - Hôtel du
Cygne
12 rue du Cygne
T: + 33 2 47 66 66 41
F: + 33 4 47 66 05 13
hotelgygne.tours@sfpi.net
www.sfpi.net/hotelcygne.tours
This modest hotel has 18 rooms and is situated in the old part of town.
It's comfortable, but there is no lift which means carrying bags up steep,
windy stairs - all part of the charm of staying in one of Tours oldest
hostelries. (Last stayed: 09/10).
Restaurant
– La Chope
25 bis
Avenue de Grammont
T: +33 2 47 05
71 21
F: +33 2 47 05
70 51
www.lachop.info
La Chope is an institution in Tours. Established in 1902, I suspect it
has changed little since then. It is now run by Samy Gicqueau and his
English wife, Zara. They met when they both worked at the Sandgate Hotel
in Hythe in Southern England in the late 1990s. Coincidentally, Christophe
Dehosse, a great chef and friend of mine in Stellenbosch, worked with Samy
too, and it was Christophe who made the introduction. The restaurant's
main focus is fish and seafood. The décor dates from the Belle Époque
era and the walls are covered in mirrors. The size of the bill is
dependent on the size and number of Gillardeau oysters you order; La Chope
being the only place in Tours where they are served. There is a short but
well selected list of wines. Highly recommended. Open seven days a week
but closed
from the end of July to the middle of August. (Last dined: 01/10)
In and Around Bourgueil
.JPG)
Hotel-Restaurant – Château
de Rochecotte
43
Rue Dorothée de Dino
Saint-Patrice
T: + 33 2 47 96
16 16
F: + 33 2 47 96
90 59
chateau.rochecotte@wanadoo.fr
www.chateau-de-rochecotte.fr
This grand country
estate set within its own formal parkland and forest was transformed into
a hotel in the early 1990s. It is located on the eastern edge of the
Bourgueil appellation and is within easy reach of the town of Langeais.
There are 35 large and well appointed rooms which are generally quiet, but
despite the relatively high cost of staying and dining here, the hotel
does accommodate (and even sets out to encourage) guests with small
children - which rather shatters the peace and tranquility of the place:
our experience of eating in the formal dining room, complete with white
glove service and gourmet menu, was marred by some fellow-diners children
chinking away on the piano, clearly attempting to perfect their own
rendition of 'Chopsticks'. The food is competent and a little to
over-fussy as can often be the case in such places. The wine list is
adequate rather than exciting and more could be done to promote the local
appellations on both side of the Loire. The wines, as with the menu and
rooms, are expensive. Rochecotte could be quite special but it falls short
and appears expensive as a result. (Last stayed 06/11)
Azay-le-Rideau
Restaurant – L’Aigle d’Or
10 Rue Adelaïde Riché
Azay-Le-Rideau
T: + 33 2 47 45 24 58
F: + 33 2 47 45 90 18
Aigle-dor@wanadoo.fr
www.laigle-dor.fr
Set in a modest town
house outside of the centre of Azay, this restaurant comes very highly
recommended. There are three separate dining rooms seating a total of 45
guests. Ghislaine and Jean-Luc
Fèvre have consistently delivered good, honest well cooked, traditional
dishes that respect the seasons, billing their daily changing menu as Cuisine
du Marché, but equally specialities include a combined Foie Gras and
Langoustine dish and Blanquette de Sandre. The wine list is excellent with
a grand selection of older vintages of Azay-le-Rideau back to the 1970s -
and older for other classic Loire appellations. On our last visit we drank
a 1988 Demi-Sec from Robert Denis, the best producer of his generation at
a very modest 23 Euros. The list is full of bargains if one is prepared to
take a chance on something that might not be instantly recognisable.
Hotel – Biencourt
7 Rue
Balzac
Azay-Le-Rideau
T: + 33 2 47 45 20 75
www.hotelbiencourt.com
Open April to start of
November, this pretty 16 roomed hotel has had a fairly recent face-lift.
Just a few paces away from the château, it is set in an 18th
Century Maison Tourangelle which once served the town as once a
primary school. At the rear, there is a pretty floral terrace where
breakfast is served during the season. Recommended (although I haven't
stayed here under the new regime) and inexpensive.
Hotel-Restaurant – Le Grand Monarque
3 Place de la République
Azay-Le-Rideau
T: + 33 2 47 45 40 08
F: + 33 2 47 45 46 25
monarq@club-internet.fr
The previous owner, since 1988, was John-Michel Forest who bought the hotel from the Jacquet family who had run it as a family concern since 1900, receiving an array of famous guests, such as the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, President Truman and the Queen Mother, during their tenure.
The restaurant has also seen an upgrade, although sadly the great wine list that once existed under the Forest regime has very sadly disappeared. There is now only one choice of grower from within the appellation - Nicolas Paget - although there are a couple of older examples of his father's wine to be enjoyed. The food is certainly not traditional, with a distinct acknowledgement towards the east and even a South African lamb curry! The food is good, if a little bizarre when one considers that their mainly international clientele would probably prefer to experience some regional cuisine. Expect to pay more than you'd like and take your own pillow... (Last stayed 06/11)
In
and around Chinon
Hotel
- Diderot
4 Rue de Buffon
Chinon
T:
+ 33 2 47 93 18 87
F: + 33 2 47 93 37 10
hoteldiderot@wanadoo.fr
www.hoteldiderot.com
This lovely
15th Century manor punches well above its humble 2 star rating. Purchased
and renovated a few years ago by the Dutheil family (relatives of the
local wine dynasty), Diderot is operated by siblings Laurent, Françoise
and Martine. There is no restaurant (which is no handicap when one
considers the choice available to guests within a ten minute walk), but
breakfast here is not to be missed. The family produce over 1,600kg of
homemade jam each year, boasting a selection of 55 different varieties,
Hotel
- Le
Plantagenêt
12 Place Jeanne d'Arc
Chinon
T: + 33 2 47 93 36 92
F: + 33 2 47 98 48 92
resa@hotel-plantagenet.com
www.hotel-plantagenet.com
This
two star hotel overlooking the main square has 33 basic rooms situated
both in the original 19th Century building and a more recent rear annex.
This is functional rather than comfortable and serves well enough for an
overnight stay although it is not recommended as a long term option. There
is free parking opposite in the square, but be aware this also houses the
local market on Thursdays so any outstanding vehicles are evicted in the
early hours. Average. (Last stayed 02/11).
Hotel-Restaurant
- Hostellerie
Gargantua / Le Gandoyau
73 Rue Haute
Chinon
T: + 33 2 47 93 04 71
F:
+ 33 2 47 93 08 02
contact@hotel-gargantua.com
www.hotel-gargantua.com
Takes
its name from its Rabelais connection; the writers father ran his affairs
from this tall, turreted 15th Century palace which originally served as
the local bailiffs office. There are seven comfortable, if somewhat cramped rooms. Each comes with its own theme
and are spread over five stories. Accessed by a central spiral staircase,
this can be a little daunting for those who tend not to travel lightly,
but for those in need of an historical fix this two star establishment
should prove suitable enough. Next door, serviced by a small terrace, is its restaurant, Le Gandoyau.
This promises a host of local dishes but in truth the food is poor and the
service comes without a smile. Not recommended. (Last dined
04/11).
4 Place Jeanne d-Arc
Chinon
T:
+ 33 2 47 93 07 71
Resto.latreille@orange.fr
This small restaurant with four upstairs rooms is
run by a husband (he’s in the kitchen) and wife team. It's a good place
to sit on the terrace and enjoy an early morning coffee and watch the
world from the edge of the square. Inside, however, is dark and a little
grubby.
The menu is made up of some simple homely staples, although I can't
comment on the quality of the food on offer. (Last visited
04/11).
Café-Hôtel
- des Arts
4 Rue Jean
Jacques Rousseau
Chinon
T: + 33 2 47 93 09 84
F: + 33 2 47 95 19 25
Cafedesarts-chinon@wanadoo.fr
frederic.giessinger@wanadoo.fr
A trendy new
bistro on the edge of Place Fontaine with a large, multi-roomed restaurant
and plenty of options for open air dining on the square outside. The menu
contains classic French brasserie favourites and a well chosen wine list
with advise available from their dedicated sommelier. The quality of the
food is good but the service by the indifferent young team is slow and
inconsistent - which is a shame. There are also six bedrooms available on
the first floor. Open for early morning coffee from 07h30 and serves until
midnight. Closed Wednesday. Recommended for the food and wine but patience
is needed when it comes to the service. (Last dined 04/11).
Restaurant
- Au Chapeau Rouge
49 Place du Géneral de Gaulle
Chinon
T/F:
+ 33 2 47 98 08 08
Chapeau.rouge@club-internet.fr
www.auchapeaurouge.fr
A relatively large restaurant split between two
distinct dining areas and situated in a quiet corner of Place Fontaine.
Chef Christophe Duguin cooks local and seasonal dishes in a competent if
unexciting manner, whilst his wife looks after the front of house. There
is a reasonable wine list which includes a good selection from the Chinon
appellation although these are from more recent vintages. Service is
friendly and prices are moderate. Au Chapeau Rouge teeters on the edge of
being traditional and outdated. Closed mid-October to mid-November and again from
mid-February to mid-March, Sunday night and Monday. (Last dined 02/11).
13 Rue Rabelais
Chinon
F: + 33 2 47 93 38 08
Oceanic.restaurant@club-internet.fr
As
the name might suggest, the focus here is on all things fishy, which also
extends to amphibious reptiles (the frogs legs in butter, garlic and
parsley are particularly recommended) and fresh lobster is housed in a
tank by the door where you can select your own dinner on arrival.
L'Oceanic is owned and run by Chef Patrick Descoubles and his very smartly
dressed wife, Marie-Paule. Prices here are moderate to expensive depending
on the menu one selects, but is relatively good value regardless. The
cooking is more than competent and there is a very good wine list with its
own pages dedicated to Chinon and includes some older vintages which are
all correctly priced. Cheeses are supplied from the famous affineur
house of Mons. Tables are available on the quiet pedestrian street outside
during the season. Service here is friendly and attentive.
42 Rue Rabelais
Chinon
www.lardoise-chinon.com
Restaurant - Les Années 30
78 Rue Voltaire
Chinon
T:
+ 33 2 47 93 37 18
F: + 33 2 47 93 33 72
lebeaucharles@wanadoo.fr
www.lesannees30.com
Situated in the heart of the medieval town, Les
Années 30 might consider itself as the most formal of dining experiences
in Chinon, especially after the demise of 'Au Plaisir Gourmand' (Chinon's
only Michelin starred establishment which once stood exactly opposite) a
couple of years ago. The restaurant stretches over two floors in this
ancient wood and stone building. Chef Stéphane Charles' cooking makes use
of local ingredients with a menu that is classic haute-cuisine, with more
formal service to match. The wine list is good and has a selection of well
chosen local producers with a few older vintages extracted from the caves
of some supportive growers. Closed end of June, end of November, Tuesdays
(except between May and September) and Wednesday. Moderate to expensive,
but recommended. (Last dined: 04/11).
Bar-à-Vins
– A La Pause Rabelaisienne
28 Place du Général de Gaulle
Chinon
T:
+ 33 2 47 93 35 25
F: + 33 2 47 93 42 53
pauserabelais@aol.com
www.chinon-vinotheque.com
This brightly painted café is
on the corner of the Place Fontaine and makes a welcome stop
for coffee, beer or a glass of wine - depending on your mood. You can also
get a modest plate of cheese or charcuterie here during the day. It is
operated (with standard Teutonic precision) by German ex-banker
Rainer Schmidt and his Chinonnaise wife, Patricia. Next door to the bar is
a wine shop with a decent selection sourced from a select few local
producers and available, in theory, at the same price as those charged at
the domaine. Rainer also offers tastings for groups of between 10 and 18
people at vaulted cellars, below.
Recommended. The bar tends to close early evening. (Last dined 04/11)
Place de Général de Gaulle
Chinon
T: + 33 2 47 93 04 14
Situated next to the town hall in one of more bustling parts of the town,
this lively little bar is the place to head for morning coffee.
30 Route de Chinon
Sazilly
F: + 33 2 47 95 25 97
valdevienne@wanadoo.fr
www.aubergeduvaldevienne.com
Sazilly, one of the communes on the rive-gauche of
the Chinon appellation, is a 15 minute drive away from the centre of town
and sits opposite the cellar of Domaine Charles Joguet. It is an old relais
de post which dates back to around 1870. There are two separate dining
rooms seating a combined seventy covers. Chef-proprietor Jean-Marc Gervais
and his wife,
Beaumont-en-Véron
T: +33 2 47 58 40 36
F: +33 2 47 58 46 06
giraudiere@hotels-france.com
This
17th century manor house is about a ten minute drive north of
Chinon and sits close to the banks of the
(Last stayed: 06/04)
Gîte
– La Bellivière
5 Rue de la Bellivière
Beaumont-en-Véron
T: + 33 2 47 93 15 24
5starloire@orange.fr
www.5starloire.com
Owned and operated by fellow Brits, Linda and Richard Garner these two
recently renovated self catering cottages served as the base during my
time researching the Chinon appellation. Located in a quiet part of the
Véron close to the banks of the Vienne, La Bellivière is still just a
five minute drive away from the centre of Chinon. This is not only an
excellent base for discovering the Chinonnais, but also ideal for touring
the château country in general given its central location. Each property
sleeps two people and available only to couples. Very highly recommended.
(Last stayed 04/11).
Since being granted with its own station on the
Restaurant
with rooms – Auberge
de la Madeleine
6
place Madeleine
Vendôme
T: +33 2 54 77 20 79
F: +33 2 54 80 00 02
Situated
in the heart of the old city, this restaurant is on a tree lined square
opposite the church of the same name. The menu features local specialities
and is quite rustic. The eight rooms above are small and very basic and
not particularly recommended.
Hotel-Restaurant - Le Saint-Georges
Vendôme
T: +33 2 54 67 42 10
T: +33 2 54 67 42 20
contact@hotel-saint-georges-vendome.com
www.hotel-saint-georges-vendome.com
Well
sited in the main through fare in the old town. The hotel offers modern,
updated self catering apartments with kitchenettes, but is otherwise quite
basic. It’s a suitable place to stop on business, but not particularly
recommended for its homely comforts. The restaurant below doubles up as a
cocktail bar.
Vendôme
T: +33 2 54 77 02 88
T: +33 2 54 73 90 71
info@hotelvendomefrance.com
www.hotelvendomefrance.com
Just
on the outer ring road, this small hotel is about a five minute walk into
the centre of town.
Jean-Marc
and Betty Ligot
1
rue Darreau
Vendôme
T: + 33 2 54 77 02 71
F: + 33 2 54 73 17 71
Something
of a walk out of town, this restaurant is located close to the old railway
station. It’s large and airy and serves typical bistro fare, such as
steak tartar and snails. The house speciality is Feuillete,
a puff pastry case with a variety of fillings. There is a small wine list
featuring a few growers from the Vendômois and the Coteaux du Loir.
Whilst it may be remote and away from the old town, it is worth seeking
out. Inexpensive.
M.
Dias
21-23 Rue du Change
Vendôme
T: + 33 2 54 67 13 51
Le-moulin-du-loir@orange.fr
www.le.moulin-du-loir.com
A
light, airy restaurant full of pastel colours, situated just off the main
pedestrian street that runs the centre of the town. It sits astride a mill
race that feeds the old roue. The food is French bistro classics with no surprises, but the
quality is acceptable if not inspiring. There is a short wine list.
14
Rue du Maréchal de Rochambeau
Vendôme
T: + 33 2 54 89 09 09
F: + 33 2 54 77 84 92
leterreatr@orange.fr
The
‘TR’ in question here is one Tony Renaudin. His restaurant is situated
in a tufa cave on the outskirts of the town; about a 15 minutes walk from
the centre. Despite the ancient location, the décor is modern as is the
trendy Buddha Bar music. There is a short but well chosen wine list, with
the wines from the Vendômois concentrated on those of Jean Brazilier and
Pascal Colin and most are available by the glass. As for the food; well
this is a classic example of too much attention to the presentation of
dishes and not enough to substance. The fad of the ubiquitous foam and
froth show the style of the food to be already outdated, and here,
certainly not has not been perfected. A great venue for a restaurant.
Let’s see if he’s still around on my next visit.
(Last dined: 12/08)
Restaurant
– Le Relais
d’Antan
Isabelle
and Paul van Gessel
6 Place du Capitaine du Vigneau
Lavardin
T: +33 2 54 86 61 33
Pretty
looking auberge just by the old pack horse bridge in this tiny ‘Most
Beautiful’ village. The menu looks serious, but unfortunately they close
of Monday and Tuesday and my visits through the region have yet to
coincide with them opening. I look forward to dining here one day.
Monique
Houdret
10 Rue de Vaux Boyers
Lavardin
T: + 33 2 54 85 31 11
P: + 33 6 82 23 33 00
A
great little find. Situated in a cave cut into the tufa below the ruined
medieval fortress. In winter, expect to be welcomed by a roaring fire with
its chimney channeled up through the rock, and a hearty home cooked lunch
– served with a slightly piqué carafe of gros rouge. Inexpensive and recommended.
Le
Caveau, Lavardin
Montoire-sur-Loir
Restaurant
- Le
Paix
10
Place Clemenceau
Montoire-sur-Loir
T: + 33 2 54 85 10 48
Montoire
is a small town central for visiting vignerons
from both the Coteaux du Vendômois and the Coteaux du Loir. In fact, Françoise
Martelliere who has operated this modest bar cum eatery on the main square
for nigh on thirty years, comes from a family of vignerons. The food is
rustic and based on the more frugal cuts of pork, her speciality being jambon
Ronsard. Wines are served by the glass, carafe or bottles and all come
from the Martelliere domaine.
(Last dined: 08/08)
Restaurant
– Le Petit Luc
3
Rue de Braye
Pont de Braye/Lavenay
T: + 33 2 43 44 45 55
F:
+ 33 2 43 44 61 35
lepetitluc@wanadoo.fr
www.lepetitluc.com
Equidistant
between Montoire and La Chartre-sur-le-Loir is this casual little
restaurant where you can eat by the fire in winter and on the terrace in
summer. Closed all day Monday. I haven’t eaten here, but it was
recommended within the region.
Hotel
– Restaurant – de France and
Le Relais
Ronsard
20
Place de la République
La Chartre-sur-le-Loir
Tel:
+ 33 2 43 44 40 16
Fax: + 33 2 43 79 62 20
hoteldefrance@worldonline.fr
Created
in 1900, Sylvia and Francis Pasteau are now the fourth generation to run
this 24 bedroomed hotel on the main square in the centre of La Chartre. On
the ground floor there is a bar on one side of the reception that also
serves a Menu du Jour, whilst a
more serious and traditional 150 cover restaurant – Le Relais Ronsard
– is situated on the other. I have never stayed here, so cannot comment
on the quality of the rooms. The main restaurant, whilst is brightly lit
looks a bit dated but has some regional charm. The first page on the
extensive menu has the chef highlighting his local suppliers, including Joël
Gigou, whose wines are the sole representative of the Jasnières and
Coteaux du Loir appellations on there limited wine list. The seasonal
winter menu was full of rib warming dishes based on offal and game. Closed
Sunday night and all day Monday. The food here is good, but not
exceptional.
Hotel de France
8
Place de la Republique
Le
Chartre-sur-Le-Loir
T: +33 2 43 44 40 44
A
little bar in the main
2
Place Mauclerc
La
Chartre-sur-le-Loir
Tél: + 33 2.43.44.42.38
Fax: + 33 2.43.44.02.08
Pepée
and Jean-Claude Beranger have run this old auberge on the road out to Marçon
since 1988. The entrance leads to the rough looking café which during the
day attracts the local workforce who stand around the bar in their blue
overalls. On the wall, almost out of view is a copy of an old vineyard map
that indicates the vineyards along the
Marie-Danièle
Millet-Lecourt
8 Rue de Syke
La Chartre-sur-le-Loir
T:
+ 33 2 43 44 65 78
P: + 33 6 85 56 30 45
mdmillet-moulin@club-internet.fr
A charming 18th
Century mill in the centre of the town. Le Grand Moulin dates from the
First Empire; its English waterwheel being installed sometime during the
1820s. The mill was in continual service, helping to grind wheat for the
towns inhabitants until it closed in 1972. It was bought in 2005 by the
delightful Marie-Danielle, who exchanged it for her
Gîte
– Joël
Gigou
4
Rue des Caves
La Chartre-sur-le-Loir
Tel: + 33 2 43 44 48 72
Chambre.gigou@wanadoo.fr
www.gigou.herce.eu
This
modest Vigneron offers two
bedroomed accommodation at his tasting room just on the edge of the town.
Café-Restaurant
- Chez Miton
15
place de l'Église
Chahaignes
T: + 33 2 43 44 62 62
F: + 33 2 43 44 25 05
Chahaignes,
one of the most important of the
Chez Miton
Chahaignes
T: + 33 2 43 44 46 19
F: + 33 2 43 44 91 39
info@lamalvoyere.com
www.lamalvoyere.com
Christophe
and Pierre Bouin raise poultry, pork and lamb on their farm situated on
the road between Chahaignes and Lhomme. The farm shop is worth seeking out
as it is full of their artisan charcuterie, foie gras and confits. In
addition, they also own vines in Rasné, the most celebrated slope in the
Coteaux du Loir and they make their wine in a separate cellar in the
village (see their grower profile for more details). Vintages back to the
early 1990s are available for purchase in the farm store. The shop is
closed Sunday afternoon and Wednesday. They also work several local
markets.
Guy
and Katia Podevin
Les Sources de l’Hermitière
Saint-Vincent-du-Lorouër
T: + 33 2 43 44 84 45
hermitiere-berce@wanadoo.fr
www.lhermitiere.fr
L’Hermitière
is situated in an idyllic wooded glade some 10km north of Chahaignes on
the edge of the Bercé forest. The building looks like an old hunting
lodge and was restored by the Guy and Katia Podevin in 2000. Along with a
private dining room, the main dining room is built around an old tree
trunk, and the bar counter has been crafted out of a huge single slab of
oak. The Podevin’s cooking is centred on ingredients that are close at
hand; mushrooms, game and chestnuts feature extensively, and crafted into
traditional Sarthoise dishes - on which subject they have published two
cookery books. The food here is confident and refined, although the
service by the young and inexperienced staff could be improved. The wine
list covers all the main growers from the region, but sadly only lists
current releases. Recommended.
(Last time dined: 12/08)
Lhomme
Bar-Restaurant
– La
Renaissance
12
Rue du Val du Loir
Lhomme
T:
+ 33 2 43 44 00 52
The
local village bar found opposite the church. There is a simple restaurant
serving a menu du jour.
Marçon
Bar-Restaurant
– du Boeuf
21
Place de l’Eglise
Marçon
T:
+ 33 2 43 44 13 12
F: + 33 2 43 44 54 75
Christiane
Bonnisseau has been serving her native Creole cuisine – she is
originally from
La
Flèche
Hotel
– Le Relais Cicero
18
Boulevard d’Alger
La Flèche
T : + 33 2 43 94 14 14
F : + 33 2 43 45 98 96
www.hotel.cicero@wanadoo.fr
www.cicero.fr
Pascale
Chérel runs this charming 17th
Century convent, set back off the road in a quiet backwater of the town.
The 21 rooms are all individually decorated and some may be a tad small
but are full of character, with classic dark wood panelling, toile
de Jouy themed fabric and oak beams. There are also a couple of
attractive salons in which to
relax and have a drink, plus an attractive garden. (Last stayed 12/08)
Rue
Gallieni
La Flèche
T : + 33 2 43 45 12 12
F :
+ 33 2 43 45 10 31
Contacts@moulindesquatresaisons.com
www.moulindesquatresaisons.com
The
restaurant is sited in an attractive 17th century watermill on an island
in the