Wining,
Dining and Sleeping in the Loire
SAUMUR
Hotel
– Bords de
Loire
Rue Vieux Pont
Saumur
T: +33 2 41 67 22 42
F: +33 2 41 67 88 80
h6648@accor.com
www.mercure.com
This is something of a bed
factory of a hotel was taken over by Mercure in 2009. It's pretty basic, but
id does enjoy one of the best
views of anywhere along the
Restaurant – Café de la
Place
16
place St-Pierre
Saumur
T: +33 2 41 51 13
27
F: +33 2 41 51
27 34
www.cafedelaplace-saumur.com
contact@cafedelaplace-saumur.com
Situated on the same busy square in
the centre of the town as the entry below. Be sure, when selecting your
table in the town, that you choose this place over the other. This proper
bistro opened in 2009 and has quickly established itself as the best
informal dining option in the town. The food is authentic and seasonal;
expect to see salads of asparagus and broad beans in spring, alongside
classics such as steak tartare and frites. The wine list is fantastic, and
has been supported by local growers who have opened their cellar doors to
liberate old vintages. Prices are very reasonable for both food and wine.
Service is friendly, if a little slow when they are busy. Very highly
recommended. Closed all day Sunday and Wednesday evening. (Dined twice in
2010 - February and May).
Restaurant – Auberge
Saint-Pierre
6
place St-Pierre
Saumur
T: +33 2 41 51 26 25
F: +33 2 41 59 89 28
Auberge.st.pierre@wanadoo.fr
This is the restaurant most guide books
recommend when eating in Saumur.
It is an authentic bistro, but the quality of the food is nothing more
that average. The wine list is pretty ordinary too, listing current
vintages of some of the more predictable growers in the region.
(Last dined: 06/03)
Restaurant – Les
Forges de Saint-Pierre
1
place St-Pierre
Saumur
T: +33 2 41 38 21 79
Just across the square from
the Auberge Saint-Pierre is Les Forges de Saint-Pierre (confusing, I
know). At this simple grill, you will find a limited menu, but the quality
is very good. There is an equally limited, but well chosen wine list.
Restaurant – Le
Pot de
Lapin
35-37 Rue Rabelais
Saumur
T: + 33 2 41 67 12 86
contact@lepotdelapin.fr
Le Pot
au Lapin is located about 15 minutes walk along the south bank of the
river to the east of the town. It's very much a neighbourhood restaurant,
set in a quiet street flanked with modest ancient houses. Its owner,
Olivier Thibault, relocated here from the centre of Saumur in 2007 (where
he used to run L'Escargot'). It's small and compact, split into two rooms,
the entrance serving as a bar where Olivier serves tapas and a great
selection of local wines by the glass. The adjoining restaurant is light
and airy and decorated with various wine memorabilia. One wall is
dedicated to a huge blackboard which carries the menu and various
recommendations and which wines he currently has open for tasting. For
what I imagine is a pretty small kitchen, there is an extensive selection,
made up mostly of local dishes. Rabbit, obviously, features regularly.
There is an extensive wine list with an impressive selection of wines from
Saumur and Saumur Champigny, all separated by commune, with some older
examples too and prices are extremely reasonable. Understandably, this is
a friendly and fun place, and well patronised by local vignerons
and it's essential to book in advance. Excellent and proper food, a great
atmosphere and service with a smile. There's no secret as to why this
place is justifiably popular. Very highly recommended. Inexpensive (given
the quality of the food and ingredients). Closed Sunday and Monday. (Last
dined 04/11).
Restaurant –
Le
Grand Bleu
6 rue de Marché
Saumur
T: +33 2 41 67
41 83
Situated in a semi-pedestrian street in the centre of the town, Le
Grand Bleu specialises in fish and seafood. It's a simple place where one
can dine to the sound of whirling swifts (and boy-racers on Vespa's) in
the spring and summer. The food is adequate and there is a sense of
complacency throughout the dining experience. The wine list is short and
carries little information on vintages and growers. Service can be
laboured. Relatively inexpensive, but eat simply - oysters, moules-frites...
and don't tax the kitchen too much by ordering more complex dishes for
fear of disappointment. (Last dined 05/10).
Restaurant –
Le
Gambetta
12 rue Gambetta
Saumur
T: +33 2 41 67
66
66
www.restaurantlegambetta.com
legambetta@neuf.fr
Saumur's only Michelin starred restaurant. Owned by Céline and
Mickaël Pihours, this is well worth a detour. The restaurant is situated
in an old maison bourgeois about a ten minute walk from the town
centre. The food is creative, inventive and very clever; thankfully, never
loosing site of substance over novelty. There is a strong Asian/Indian
influence over many of the dishes, which is weaved into the menu so well
that it only compliments the overall classical nature of the cuisine. The
service is exact and friendly; the wine list comprehensive and, when it
comes to the Loire selection, is well chosen with some of the best names
represented. Overall this is highly recommended and also offers excellent
value. Closed Sunday evening, Monday and Wednesday. (Last dined
05/10).
Fontevraud-l’Abbaye
This
is an excellent base for accessing the appellations of Saumur-Champigny,
Chinon and across the river into Bourgueil. It has the added attraction of
being a small and very attractive village, the centre of which is the
Abbaye Royale, one of the most complete monastic buildings anywhere in
Fontevraud-l’Abbaye
T:
+33 2 41 51 73 16
F: +33 2 41 51 75 50
Contact@hotelfp-fontevraud.com
Situated
in the grounds of the Abbaye Royale, this former priory, prison and leper
colony has been transformed into a relaxing retreat. The benefit of
checking in here is that the price includes entry into the abbey. In the
evening the grounds are deserted, so a great way to avoid the daily
crowds. The priory’s old cloister serves as the restaurant.
(Last
stayed: 07/08)
Hotel-Restaurant
– Hostellerie
de la Croix Blanche
Fontevraud-l’Abbaye
T:
+33 2 41 51 71 11
F: +33 2 41 38 15 38
info@hotel-croixblanche.com
www.hotel-croixblanche.com
This
old coaching inn sits at the entrance to the Abbaye Royale. There are some
23 rooms and two different restaurants: one formal 'Le Plantagenêt', the other a
bistro 'La Fontaine d'Evraud'. Since 2005 it has been in the hands of
Christophe and Mieke Chabenat who have turned around its poor reputation.
Dinner in the gastronomic restaurant offers a wide choice of dishes and
menu options but there is a strong sense of consideration towards
celebrating regional dishes whilst at the same time respecting the
seasonality of ingredients. Christophe's cooking is clear precise as is
the service. Given the quality on offer, prices seem very reasonable. The
wine list is well chosen, although some older vintages from the local
appellations within Touraine and Anjou-Saumur would be welcome. The rooms
also have enjoyed some serious upgrading and come in three separate levels
of luxury. There is a swimming pool, private car park and free wi-fi
access throughout. Highly recommended. (Last dined 04/11)
Restaurant
– La
Licorne
Allée
Ste Catherine
Fontevraud-l’Abbaye
T:
+33 2 41 51 72 49
F: +33 2 41 51 70 40
Licorne.fontevraud@free.fr
This
used to be one of my favourite places to dine in the Loire
. It is accessed off a small gravel alley in the centre of the town. The
wine list is extensive with some older vintages available, although I felt
the list was being allowed to run down a little on my most recent visit.
The food is as classical, although it sadly lost its Michelin star in
2010. Service from the young brigade here is thankfully informal and
relaxed.
Chenehutte-les-Tuffeaux
A hamlet on the south bank of the
Hotel-Restaurant – Prieuré
Chenehutte-les-Tuffeaux
T:
+33 2 41 67 90 14
F: +33 2 41 67 92 24
prieure@grandesetapes.fr
This
priory, which dates back to the 12th century sits high above
the
(Last dined: 02/08)
Les Rosiers is a small town lying equidistant
between Saumur and
Place
de l’Eglise
Les-Rosiers-sur-Loire
T: +33 2 41 51 80 30
F: +33 2 41 51 95 00
Situated
in the centre of town, this modest Logis de France hosts a pleasant small,
traditional restaurant serving seasonal dishes with a wine list composed
of more recent vintages from local appellations. The rooms are
serviceable, if a little small.
(Last stayed and dined: 06/04)
Route
d’Angers
Les Rosiers-sur-Loire
T: +33 2 41 51 80 75
F: +33 2 41 38 06 38
The
restaurant sits on top of the levee overlooking the Loire on the
(Last dined: 06/04)
Doué-la-Fontaine
Chambres
d'Hôtes - Le Grande Maison d'Athenay
Rue de la Cerisaie
Arthenay
Les Verchers-sur-Layon
T: + 33 2 41 40 35 06
resv@lagrandemaison.net
www.lagrandemaison.net
Described
as a 'private island' set in the heart of the vines. Run by Micaela Frow
and Sue Hunt, they serve simple food and offer wine 'sampling suppers'. I
have yet to stay here, but hope to soon.
Montreuil-Bellay
Chambres
d'Hôtes - Domaine de la Bellevue
8 Rue Jeanne Ogeron
Pouançay
T: + 33 5 49 22 34 09
loirevalley@hotmail.fr
www.domainedelabellevue.com
Some
eight kilometres south-east of the town, this bed and breakfast cum self
catering cottage is run by
English born Sarah-Jane Beaumont and her French, vigneron husband,
Gérald, who conducts bespoke vineyard tours.
La
Breille-les-Pins
Actually
closer to the vineyards of Bourgueil than Saumur, this commune of 500
souls is situated in the centre of a 300 hectare forest.
Hotel-Restaurant
- L'Orée des Bois
2 rue Saumuroise
T: + 33 2 41 38 85 45
F: + 33 2 41 38 86 07
www.hotel-restaurant-loreedesbois-49.com
I
haven't eaten here myself, but the place comes recommended by fellow
Master of Wine, Martin Hudson, who has a holiday home close by. It's
situated in a modern building (the previous one was burnt down,
apparently, by a disgruntled former chef) and, according to Martin, serves
good food. Closed Wednesday, and Sundays out of season.