Wining,
Dining and Sleeping in the Loire
ANJOU
Angers

Hotel-Restaurant
–
Anjou
/ Le
Salamandre
1
boulevard Marechal Foch
T: +33 2 41 21 12 11
F: +33 2 41 87 22 21
info@hotelanjou.fr
The
Anjou
is probably the most renowned hotel in Angers, dating back to the mid 1800s. It is situated on the main
boulevard and it can be a little noisy. The rooms are small, but
modern and it is a suitable base for exploring the city. The Salamandre
restaurant is on the ground floor; it’s dark panelling and tapestries
lending it a formal appearance. The food, based on local dishes, is dull
and predictable and the service by under-qualified staff is sloppy.
The wine list is short, scruffily presented and although most of the best growers in Anjou
are represented there are no mature vintages on offer. The hotel comes
recommended as a base, but sadly not the restaurant. (Last time dined:
01/11)
Hotel-Restaurant
– de France
/ Les Plantagenêts
8
Place de la Gare
T: + 33 2 41 88 49 42
F: + 33 2 41 87 19 50
reservation@hoteldefrance.com
www.hoteldefrance-angers.com
The
Hotel de France is typical of a grand old railway hotel. It has been in
under the control of the Bouyer family since 1893. It offers 55 rooms off
the crescent facing Angers
modern looking railway station. It is a bustling location and can be a little
noisy. They offer various standards of room, some of which have been
recently refurbished. The ground floor has a bistro (which has been closed
on my past couple of stays) on one side and a more formal restaurant on the other. Recommended as a
central base within Angers
and is in easy walking distance of the château and the centre of town. (Last stayed:
02/12)

Hotel – Hotel
du Mail
8
Rue des Ursules
T: +33 2 41 25 05 25
F: +33 2 41 86 91 20
contact@hotel-du-mail.com
www.hotel-du-mail.com
This
former 17th century convent is found on a quiet street running
parallel to the main boulevard. Thankfully, the menacing Madame owner has
since left; the hotel changing hands in September 2009. It's now under the
stewardship of Christian and Catherine Duval who have run cafés and bars
around Le Mans and Angers for the past two decades. It has a private car park cum courtyard
and many of the rooms have been recently upgraded. However, avoid the
rooms directly off the courtyard. The highlight here is
the giddy, rickety wooden staircase.
(Last time stayed: 02/08)
Restaurant –
Le
Favre d’Anne
Pascal
et Mathilde Favre d’Anne
18 Quai des Carmes
T: + 33 2 41 36 12 12
contact@lefavredanne.fr
www.lefavredanne.fr
Situated
on the opposite side of the Maine, facing the château, the restaurant is located in a 19th
Century maison bourgeoise.
Pascal originates from the Savoie and worked under Marc Veyrat in Annecy
for two years before opening this ‘restaurant créatif’ with wife,
Mathilde, in September 2008. He has since landed a Michelin star of his
own and was voted ‘Gault et Millau Young Chef of the Year’ in 2008.
The menu, presented in a picture frame is as challenging to comprehend as
the food itself, and whilst certain dishes work, others don’t. That
said, this is well worth a visit and offers relatively good value. There
is an excellent wine list, selected by Mathilde, and prices are very
reasonable here too. An attractive restaurant and setting with good
service; run by very nice people. The food could be a little less fussy,
but otherwise it comes highly recommended. (Last
dined: 02/09)

Restaurant – Chez
Remi
7 bis
Boulevard Foch
T: +33 2 41
24 95 44
This tiny little restaurant was opened in 2009 by Remi Fournie, owner
of Le Cercle Rouge, a Bar à Vin, also in the town (see below). It
quickly established a local following, although having heard mixed reports
and comments on its challenging menu and use of 'natural wines', I was
keen to pay a visit. The open kitchen and dining area appear to be packed
into what appears to be little more than a 40 foot shipping container, but
despite its confined space, there is no sense of claustrophobia. The small
kitchen rather dictates the style of the food and the menu is generally
limited to a trio of starters, main courses and desserts, although I see
this as no handicap, since I would have ordered everything on the menu!
Remi does make use of less fashionable produce and cuts of meat, which
also gives the food a sense of originality. Service is smiley and swift.
There are a good selection of wines by the glass and an option to take a
set price flight, although this can be a bit hit and miss. There is a good
selection of Loire wines, all organic, biodynamic or 'natural', and
includes some wines that are both edgy and controversial. I've very much
enjoyed my two dining experience at Chez Remi and it comes highly recommended.
Very good value. Open for lunch Tuesday to Friday and dinner
from Monday to Friday. Booking essential. (Last dined: 02/12).
Bar
à Vin – Le
Cercle Rouge
4 rue
des Deux Haies
T: +33 2 41
87 49 66
Owned by Remi Fournie of Chez Remi, above.

Restaurant – Brasserie
de la Gare
Place
Gare
T: +33 2 41 88 48 57
Not
surprisingly, situated in the crescent facing the station. This busy,
authentic bistro serves generally reliable steaks as well has having
its’ own dedicated oyster bar. The wine list is well represented with
top local growers, although mostly from current vintage releases.
Recommended so as long as you order oysters and steak. Once you go off-piste,
the dishes become more variable. (Last
time dined: 02/10)
Restaurant
– Le
Lucullus
5
rue Hoche
T: +33 2 41 87 00 44
This
formal restaurant is situated in a small vaulted cellar about a five
minute walk from Angers
station. This was a regular haunt of mine until I was nearly poisoned by a
very dodgy smelling lobster. The restaurant is owned by Troisgros trained
Pascal Houssay and his rather bossy wife. The food is classical and the
service dominated by the presence of Mme Houssay. As with most restaurants
in Angers, there is a good representation of local growers on the list, but the carte lacks depth and wines with any sense of maturity. (Last dined: 02/07)
Restaurant
– La Ferme
Place
Frappel
T: +33 2 41 87 09 90
F: +33 2 41 20 92 82
A
bright, two roomed restaurant situated in the square alongside the
cathedral. La Ferme offers a small menu of classic regional and seasonal
dishes; confit de canard, Coq au Vin,
Poule au Pot… There is a good selection of grilled meat and fish.
There is a modest but well chosen list of some top local Anjou
and Saumur producers. Inexpensive. (Last dined: 02/12)
Restaurant
–
Le Relais
9
rue de la Gare
T: +33 2 41 88 42 51
F: +33 2 41 24 75 20
www.destination-anjou.com
Certainly
one of
the best restaurant in Angers, this is a small but busy bistro offering
good local seasonal food with a fast and efficient, friendly service
conducted, for the benefit of the Anglophiles in impeccable English.
There is a good selection of wines from the region with some mature
bottles on offer. Inexpensive for the quality. Booking essential. Very
highly recommended. (Last dined: 02/11)
Restaurant
– Provence
Caffé
9
place Raillement
T/F: +33 2 41 87 44 15
This
is a modern, bright, orange coloured first floor eatery in the centre of
town that, when I last dined there, was serving conventional and
uninspiring dishes from southern France. The restaurant has since changed hands and I have heard recent decent
reports. (Last
dined: 02/04)
Restaurant
– Le Petit
Comptoir
Laetitia
& Stéphane Cosnier
40 rue David d’Angers
T/F: +33 2 41 88 81 57
lepetitcomptoir@9business.fr
Le
Petit Comptoir is a relatively small and unknown wine bar-restaurant on a
side street just off the main boulevard. I have only dined here during the
time of the annual Salon des Vins de Loire, when they tend to serve a
limited menu (at an elevated price). The food however is very good. The
wine list is short with some interesting non-Loire
additions, and they serve a good selection of these by the glass. Closed
Sunday and Monday (except during the Salon). Recommended but expect to
receive some disorganised service. (Last dined: 02/12)
Restaurant
– Le
Bouchon Angevin
44
rue Beaurepaire
Angers
Doutre
T:
+33 2 41 24 77 97
You
need to traverse the river Maine to find this tiny wine shop and modest Bar
á Vin. The dishes here revolve around minor classics, such as Escargots
au beurre persilé and Confit de
canard. Needless to say, there is a good and less predictable
selection of wines to choose from.
(Last dined: 02/04)
Restaurant
– Autour
d’un Cep
9
Rue Baudrière
T: + 33 2 41 42 61 00
This
small bistro, situated between the cathedral and the river, bills itself
as a ‘Restaurant á Vins’ and opened in late 2008 by Jérémie Baron
and Antoine Landron (the son of celebrated Muscadet vigneron,
Jo). It specialises in local and seasonal dishes. There is a good
selection of interesting wines, many by the glass. The quality overall is
good, but could do with a little refining, which hopefully will come with
time. Closed Saturday lunch, Sunday and Monday night.
(Last dined: 02/09)

Restaurant – Une
Île
9
Rue Max-Richard
T: + 33 2 41 19 14 48
www.une-ile.fr
Gérard
and Catherine Bossé closed their celebrated one star Michelin Les
Tonnelles on the
island
of Béhuard and opened up this new
restaurant close to the station in January 2009. They regained their Michelin macaroon with the
publication of the 2010 Guide. The food here, with its slight Asiatic
influence, is worthy of its Star, but the service (on only my one and only
visit) was frankly a joke. Whilst Gérard slaves over his stove, madame
occupies herself chatting to favoured clients neglecting fellow diners. It
took 20 minutes after being seated before we were served our aperitifs and
only then after having needed to prompt the staff - and don't even think
about asking for a beer (even if you are desperate after an exhausting day
tasting wine). The wine list is extensive and carries some very good names
with a well chosen selection reaching further than just the banks of the
Loire. Service, however, remained poor throughout the evening with front
of house staff failing to anticipate the needs of diners, especially when
it came to topping up wine glasses.
Closed the first
week of January, mid-August to early September and Sundays. They also
close on Saturday evenings during spring and summer. Go for he excellent
food but expect arrogant and incompetent service. Expensive. (Last dined
02/11).
Restaurant – Brasserie du
Théâtre
7 Place
du Ralliement
T: + 33 2 41
24 15 15
www.brasserie-du-theatre.com
Situated
on one of the main squares in the centre of the town, this long standing
bar-brasserie has recently reinvented itself. It's relatively large with
tables extending onto two balconies above the entrance. Service is crisp
and offered by a band of seasoned waiters classically trained. The menu
offers proper bistro staples, but one should note that they serve oysters
from Gillardeau, which alone are worth a detour. The steaks here are good
(but could be better) and there is a short but well chosen selection of
wines with all the best regional growers represented. This is a good place
to head if you've arrived in town with no idea where to eat as it's
unlikely ever to be completely booked up or full. Recommended and good
value. (Last dined: 02/12).
Hotel-Restaurant
– La Croix
Cadeau / Le Cavier
Route
de Laval
Avrillé
T:
+33 2 41 42 30 45
F: +33 2 41 42 40 32
lecavier@lecroixcadeau.fr
www.lacroiscadeau.fr
La
Croix Cadeau is a modern budget hotel on the edge of an industrial estate,
about a ten minute drive north of Angers. The restaurant, Le Cavier, is situated alongside in a disused windmill
built in the local black slate. The menu is traditional and relatively
modest. Expect to find the likes of Blanquette
de veau and other French classics here. The wine list is short, but
based on a source of good, local growers.
(Last stayed and dined: 02/04)
In
and around Savennières
Restaurant – La
Terrasse
2
Place Ruzebouc
La Pointe - Bouchemaine
T: +33 2 41 77 11 96
ancredemarine@wanadoo.fr
www.la-terrasse-sur-loire.com
There
is a lovely view overlooking the river at the confluence of the
Maine
and the Loire
some five kilometres east of Epiré. La Pointe has the feel of a small
coastal fishing village and the cuisine here rather reflects this, based
on locally caught fish and seafood. The restaurant has a great wine list
with a comprehensive selection of
Loire
wines, from both the banks immediately adjacent as well as further
upstream. It comes highly recommended for lunch. Next door, and under the
same ownership, is a simple brasserie, L’Auberge de l’Ancre de Marine
which also has five rooms.
(Last
time dined:02/08)
Restaurant
- La Taverne du Prieuré
1
Place du Pilori
La Possonnière
T: +33 2 41 72 20 44
A
simple brasserie situated in the centre of the village. Good for a quick
lunch. It’s frequented by local farmers, and with friendly and efficient
service. Also open some evenings, but best to check opening times in
advance. Inexpensive. (Last
time dined: 02/08)
Chambre
d’Hote - Moulin
de Beaupréau
Savennières
T: +33 2 41 72 24 47
www.chambresauxmoulin-savennieres.fr
Surrounded
by vines and situated in and around a converted windmill at the rear of
the plateau of Savennières. Credit cards not accepted.
Restaurant
– La
Corniche
La
Haie Longue
St Aubin de Luigne
T: +33 2 41 78 67 00
A
useful little lunchtime find on the scenic Corniche angevin, between
Rochefort and Chalonnes-sur-Loire. It serves simple dishes, including
salads. Inexpensive and recommended.
(Last dined: 05/10)
Hotel-Restaurant
- The Grand Hotel
Rochefort-sur-Loire
You
may find reference to this hotel in numerous guides on the
Loire
and out of date wine reference guides. After booking in one night in
January 2008, we had checked out within the hour. The place needs to be
condemned.
Restaurant
– Le Relais d’Anjou
Rue
Nationale
Saint-Georges-sur-Loire
T: +33 2 41 39 13 38
F: +33 2 41 39 13 69
Relais-anjou@wanadoo.fr
This
is a fairly typical family run restaurant on the main road through the
town with bright and airy décor. It serves local dishes and the quality
is perfectly decent although not particularly inspiring. (Last dined: 02/08)
Western
Anjou
Champtocé-sur-Loire
Restaurant
– Barbe
Bleue
Le
Moulin Brûlé
T:
+33 2 41 48 20 83
A
relatively simple eatery specialising in grilled meat and fish, cooked on
an open wood fire. A small and uninspiring selection of local wines is on
offer.
(Last dined: 02/08)
Montjean-sur-Loire
Restaurant with rooms – Auberge
de la Loire
2
quai des Mariniers
T/F: +33 2 41 39 80 20
Contacts@aubergedelaloire.com
Over
looking the
Loire
’s south bank, this humble looking auberge serves a very good and
modestly priced Menu Degustation based on local and seasonal ingredients, such as
pigeon and zander. The wine list is short but well chosen, with some top
local growers and a few wild cards thrown in to make an interesting
selection.
(last dined:02/08)
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