Côtes du Forez
Grower Profiles
Daniel
Mondon
Christiane
et Daniel Mondon
This ancient
Forézien farm situated at the southern end of the Forez plain probably
qualifies as the southern-most wine producer in the whole of the Loire
(river rather than just département).
Brothers Fernand and Daniel Mondon established Gaec du Pic in 1974 and
were as much dairy farmers as vignerons
until they elected to put all their efforts into viticulture in 2002,
withdrawing from the co-operative at the same time. They were joined by
Daniel’s wife, Christiane, a year later and when Fernand chose to retire
in 2006, they bought in the young (and obviously hard working and
talented) Laurent Demeure as a winemaking partner.
Their
highly complex structure of wines breaks down to plantings of the
following varieties: 1.0ha Chardonnay, 2.5ha Viognier( grown on the slopes
of the Pic de Saint-Romain), 1.2ha Gamay (for appellation and Vin de Pays
Rosé, plus straw wine), 0.3ha Syrah, 0.2ha Merlot and 1.2ha of assorted
hybrids, including Noah, Rava 6, Seibel 7053 (aka Chancellor and in the
1940s was the most widely planted hybrid in France), Seibel 54/55 (aka
Plantet) and Baco Noir. Their first harvested of Baco was during the 2009
vintage, from grapes sourced from vineyard 800 metres up on the slopes of
the Monts du Forez. Seibel 54/55 is a red variety, which Mondon believes
is good for rosé but only capable of making mediocre red wines. Apart
from rosé, they use it to make straw wine and ice wine. The Rava 6 is a
floral and aromatic variety apparently much loved by the local bird and
deer population, and is sourced from a parcel of vines in Marcilly-le-Châtel.
There are also some experimental micro-plantings of Marsanne, Cabernet,
Sauvignon and even Mondeuse.
Hold tight
for a brief run down of the complex range of wines produced, starting with
their sole release under the appellation.
From 30-80
year old Gamay vines. The grapes are whole bunch pressed to allow for a
semi-carbonique fermentation and a 20 day cuvaison
at 25 degrees centigrade. The final wine is a blend of free run and press
juice.
Is a low
alcohol (10%) wine and made exclusively from Gamay. It endures a long,
slow fermentation which is stopped when the wine reaches around 30 g/l
residual sugar. The resulting wine is facile, short and something of a
disappointment.
Is from the
Viognier vines at the top of the Pic de Saint-Romain. The grapes are
picked slightly under ripe and allowed a long vinification in tank at a
low temperature (15 degrees centigrade). The 2008 shows good varietal
character, but any sense of minerality is lost behind the ripeness and
phenolic element of the wine.
Is named
after the wine produced by the inhabitants of Saint-Romain-Le-Puy in the
13th Century, although its colour and variety used at the time remains a
mystery. The 2008 is made from Chardonnay and retains some residual sugar,
the wine being cold fermented at 15 degrees Centigrade for 30 days and
raised on its lees in tank.
Is a second
cuvée of Viognier from the vines in Saint-Romain-le-Puy and it takes its
name from the first monk to taste the fruits of the vines he planted on
the volcanic slope in the early 11th Century. It too is picked slightly
under-ripe and fermented at low temperature, although the resulting wine
is fatter and with higher alcohol (13%). The 2008 retained some residual
sugar and although appears bone dry is rich and concentrated but also a
little fatiguing.
Is produced
from Gamay from outside of the Côtes du Forez appellation.
Rosé
Sec - Authentique
Produced
from Seibel 54/55 and fermented at a low temperature for 30 days.
Is produced
from hybrid Rava 6 and is a micro-cuvée of 600 litres and raised for four
months in barrel.
Literally
‘free thinking’, this is produced from Seibel 7053 (Chancellor) from
vines planted in 1922 in the commune of Lavieu at 700 metres altitude. It
receives a whole bunch ferment for 12 days at 30 degrees centigrade before
being raised in three year old barrels for nine months.
From the
same parcel of Viognier. The leaves are lifted to allow the grapes to
sundry on the vine and then harvested in mid November once the berries
have dried to a potential alcohol of 20% plus. The ferment is slow, often
taking until the following August to complete. Only 300 litres are
produced.
Berries
drying on beds of straw
Is a red ice
wine produced from Seibel 54/55 that were planted in 1960. The grapes are
harvested after the first frosts (usually around the last week of
November) when the temperature descends below minus seven degrees and
after the grapes have attained a potential alcohol of 16.5%. The berries
are lightly pressed over a period of 15 days and then allowed to ferment
until Spring in fût. The resulting wine carries around 15% alcohol, 18g/l
of total acidity and 15 g/l residual sugar. The result is an intense and
complex, if high toned wine, with a clean and crisp finish and a
cranberry-like acidity that makes the wine appear bone dry.
The free run
juice of Viognier is separated out and chilled to clear and the aged for a
year in barrel. It is referred to as either ‘Nectar’ or ‘Essence of
Viognier’. The result is a high alcohol wine of great concentration,
although also a little phenolic.
Gaec du Pic
Fontival
Boisset-Saint-Priest
T/F: + 33 4 77 76 33 30
Fernand.mondon@wanadoo.fr
www.cavemondon.fr